Come on, Spring, Where Are You?

Shrovetide carnivals and masks in Slovenia

Krvavec from afar (2018) by Jošt GantarSlovenian Tourist Board

Winter in Slovenia can be quite wonderful. Despite this, Slovenes are well-versed in calling to spring to get rid of winter. 

Every year, the entire country welcomes spring with Shrovetide carnivals galore – each region in their own way and with their own special masks.

Ptuj Carnival (2019) by Marko Pigac, arhiv Zavod za turizem PtujSlovenian Tourist Board

"Kurentovanje" in Ptuj

One of the most recognizable carnivals is the Shrovetide carnival in north-eastern Slovenia, in the region of Ptuj. Traditionally called “kurentovanje”, the festival has been organized every year on Shrovetide Sunday since 1960.

"Kurentovanje" in Ptuj (1960) by Danilo ŠkofičSlovenian Tourist Board

Mentions of Shrovetide games in Ptuj stem back to 1610, although the first parade was held in Ptuj in 1873. Only in 1880 was the character of “korant” or “kurent” first depicted by Jurij Šubic, although the tradition and lore almost certainly go back to the time of Celts.

Kurents (2019) by Marko Pigac, arhiv Zavod za turizem PtujSlovenian Tourist Board

"Kurent"

Nowadays, “kurent” is the most recognizable character of Slovenia’s Shrovetide celebrations.

The full-body costume is made of sheepskin, a belt with cow bells attached, heavy boots and red or green leg warmers, a large head with ribbons and horns, a long, red leather tongue, and a wooden club made of hedgehog skin that the wearer carries in their hand.

Ethno parade by Marko Pigac, arhiv Zavod za turizem PtujSlovenian Tourist Board

Although it is mainly the job of “kurent” to chase away the winter, he does have some help of other Shrovetide masks, like log-haulers, ploughmen, fairies, gypsies and cockerels.

St. George's Day in Bela Krajina (2018) by Urban Urbanc, Sportida d.o.o.Slovenian Tourist Board

"Jurjevo"

In Bela Krajina, the southeast of Slovenia, Shrovetide is of a bit lesser importance than “Jurjevo” or Saint George’s Day. 

St. George's Day in Bela Krajina (2018) by Urban Urbanc, Sportida d.o.o.Slovenian Tourist Board

It’s celebrated on 24 April with the name “Jurjevanje”, which is Slovenia’s oldest folklore festival, and has roots in pagan folklore. For shepherds, this holiday was important, as it was the first day when they could drive cattle to pasture.

The tradition on “Jurjevo” dictates “Zeleni Jurij”, a character that brings spring back to the world each year, wearing a costume made of birch sticks and leaves, to go from house to house, knocking on people’s doors, assuring them that the harvest will be plentiful that year.

Shrovetide in Cerkno (2019) by Matej Vranič, FotokomSlovenian Tourist Board

"Laufarji" in Cerkno

In Cerkno, the Shrovetide tradition of “Laufarija” includes 26 characters, 25 of which are called “laufarji” with masks carved out of linden tree wood. 

Each “laufar” character has a specific name, e. g. “the Drunk One”, “the Old Man”, and “the Ivy Man”.  

Pust (2008) by Žan KafolSlovenian Tourist Board

"Pust" Mask

The most important character in “Laufarija” is “Pust” (Shrovetide), who is symbolically sentenced to death by a lumberjack mallet for his guilt in everything bad that has happened the previous year. His death signifies the end of winter. 

The costume for this character is made out of moss and can weigh up to 100 kilos. 

Shrovetide carnival in Drežnica (2019) by Matej Vranič, FotokomSlovenian Tourist Board

The Pretty Ones

Not far away in Drežnica, Shrovetide is celebrated with characters that are divided into two groups – the Pretty Ones and the Ugly Ones. 

The Pretty Ones go from door to door, dancing and spreading joy, and are given gifts in return.

Carnival in Drežnica by Matej Vranič, FotokomSlovenian Tourist Board

The Ugly Ones

The Ugly Ones, however, chase children around the village and sprinkle them with ash!

Shrovetide carnival in Cerknica (2019) by Matej Vranič, FotokomSlovenian Tourist Board

Cerknica Carnival

From Fat Thursday until Ash Wednesday, the town of Cerknica renames itself to Butale. In Fran Milčinski’s 1949 book “Butalci”, which is a term for the residents of Butale, “Butalci” are a folk who thinks that they are very smart, but are actually quite . . . dense. 

Cerknica (1679) by Johann Weikhard von ValvasorSlovenian Tourist Board

"Ursula, the Witch" is also a recognizable mask at the Cerknica carnival. In his book from 1689, Slovenian scholar Johann Valvasor wrote about a hole at the top of the Slivnica mountain – according to him, it was the meeting place for witches cooking up storms. 

Carnival in Cerknica by Matej Vranič, FotokomSlovenian Tourist Board

The Witches of Cerknica

As “Butalci” are not especially keen on having storms for their Shrovetide carnival, they talk to “Ursula, the Witch” to ensure good weather. 

This is also why the first invite for the carnival is always sent to the Great Mother Ursula!

Sawing of the Old Hag (2009) by Miha ŠpičekSlovenian Tourist Board

Sawing of the Old Hag

The first part of the carnival in Cerknica is the (symbolic) sawing of the old hag or witch (it’s actually a log).

It stems from the old days, when mothers were busy making food before the Lent period, and to get the children out of the house, so as to have peace, they told them to go look for the witch being sawed in half. 

Shrovetide carnival in Cerknica (2019) by Matej Vranič, FotokomSlovenian Tourist Board

Other unforgettable characters of the carnival in Cerknica are “Jezerko, the Lake Man”, who is blamed for every flooding of the intermittent lake in Cerknica, “the Dragon”, “the Frog”, the “Hillbillies”, “the Pikes”, and more! 

"Škoromati" with bells (2010) by Adela PuklSlovenian Tourist Board

"Škoromati"

Onward to the Littoral! The area of Brkini is full of “škoromati” (scoromati) each year at Shrovetide. It’s some 700-years-old folklore tradition that originated in Italy. 

Nowadays, “poberini” go door to door to receive gifts, while other “škoromati” go from bar to bar for food and drinks, paid for by their good cousins “poberini”. 

Škoromati and poberija (2013) by TheKronistSlovenian Tourist Board

"Škopit" (2010) by Adela PuklSlovenian Tourist Board

“Škoromati” chase children and unmarried women with large tongs and smear these poor people’s faces with ash! 

The burial of the Carnival King (2010) by Miha ŠpičekSlovenian Tourist Board

The Burial of the Carnival King

On Ash Wednesday in the “škoromati” tradition, local men and boys set a puppet of the Carnival King on fire as a punishment for his role in all the mishaps that have happened in the village through the year.

Kurent costume (2021) by Luka SveticSlovenian Tourist Board

All Shrovetide carnivals and traditions in Slovenia have common grounds: the welcoming of spring, blaming a certain somebody for all the bad things that happen, and – most of all – ingenious masks and costumes that are centuries old. 

Shrovetide in Cerkno (2019) by Matej Vranič, FotokomSlovenian Tourist Board

Oh, wait. We shouldn’t forget about “krofi”! After all, these carnival doughnuts are probably more popular than any Shrovetide mask you could think of. No offense to Potica, though. You’re still the most popular festive pastry! 

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