Cotton leheriya dupatta (2023) by MeenaLucknow Bioscope
Among the celebrations in the festive monsoon months (sāwan) is the Awadhi tradition of women and girls dyeing white cotton dupaṭṭās with combinations of different colours of thin stripes in a leheriyā (wave-like) pattern. In joint families in Lucknow, women would assemble on a more leisurely afternoon to stir in many colours in small vats and create their own patterns and combinations.
In Kakori, neighbours and extended family would send grass baskets carrying leheriyā dupaṭṭās and shahānās (brightly coloured lac bangles with silver foil and mirror work) for girls in each other’s homes. Such charming traditions have been lost in the pace of changing times, but some have learnt the leheriyā technique from their mothers, aunts and grandmothers.
Cotton leheriya dupatta with champa edging (2023) by MeenaLucknow Bioscope
A white cotton dupaṭṭā, lightly starched and dried, is folded twice along the length and laid on a padding of cloth or old newspaper. About 18 inch lengths of thick cotton dōri (string), knotted at one end, are soaked in different vats/large bowls in which dyeing colour has been dissolved well in lukewam water.
One can also add a few tablespoons of natural gōnd (gum) to the colour mix; this prevents the colour from spreading on the cloth. After the string dipped in each colour is well-soaked, it is lifted and the excess liquid is gently drained so that it does not drip. The string is then positioned at a 45-50˚ angle on the cloth and firmly pressed with the back of a heavy spoon so that it presses into the cloth and the colour soaks through the four layers.
Freshly dyed and unfolded leheriya dupatta (2023) by UnknownLucknow Bioscope
This step is repeated until the dupaṭṭā length is done, and the cloth is gently opened to reveal the coloured lehers (waves). One can use different colour combinations and placements of stripes to create geometric patterns. For instance, if one changes the direction of the stripes by folding at the middle of the dupaṭṭā, a diamond shape is formed when the dupaṭṭā is unfolded. The corners of the folded- dupaṭṭā can be dipped in colour to make triangular kannīs at the ends.
Crinkled and coiled leheriya dupattas after dyeing (2023) by MeenaLucknow Bioscope
The dupaṭṭā is then dried and crinkled. Crinkling (cunāī) enhances the wave effect of the leheriyā. The leheriyā-cunā dupaṭṭās can also be edged with thin gōṭā lace. More elaborate dupattas can have bādlā fardī work.
Freshly dyed and unfolded leheriya dupatta (2023) by UnknownLucknow Bioscope
Once a common dyeing practice in Lucknow homes, very few know technique now. Traditional dyers in the city know the craft, but traditional leheriya dupattas are not sold in the market.
This is a dyeing technique using strings of cotton thread dipped in colour to make patterns on cotton dupattas.
Curation: Noor Khan & Saman Habib
Photography: Ayan Bose, Tasveer Hasan
Team: Nagma Ehtesham, Mariyam Imran, Saman Habib, Noor Khan
Text, Editing and Translation: Saman Habib, Noor Khan, Sabiha Anwar, Isha Priya Singh, Waseem Ahmed,Stuti Mishra,Divya Joshi
Video: Aisha Khatoon
Gracious Contribution by:
Jaazbiya Khan
Sabiha Anwar
Sheeba Iqbal Jairajpuri
