Leheriyā Dupaṭṭā

Among the celebrations in the festive monsoon months (sāwan) is the Awadhi tradition of women and girls dyeing white cotton dupaṭṭās with combinations of different colours of thin stripes in a leheriyā (wave-like) pattern. In joint families in Lucknow, women would assemble on a more leisurely afternoon to stir in many colours in small vats and create their own patterns and combinations. 

A white cotton dupaṭṭā, lightly starched and dried, is folded twice along the length and laid on a padding of cloth or old newspaper. About 18 inch lengths of thick cotton dōri (string), knotted at one end, are soaked in different vats/large bowls in which dyeing colour has been dissolved well in lukewam water.

This step is repeated until the dupaṭṭā length is done, and the cloth is gently opened to reveal the coloured lehers (waves). One can use different colour combinations and placements of stripes to create geometric patterns. For instance, if one changes the direction of the stripes by folding at the middle of the dupaṭṭā, a diamond shape is formed when the dupaṭṭā is unfolded. The corners of the folded- dupaṭṭā can be dipped in colour to make triangular kannīs at the ends.

The dupaṭṭā is then dried and crinkled. Crinkling (cunāī) enhances the wave effect of the leheriyā. The leheriyā-cunā dupaṭṭās can also be edged with thin gōṭā lace. More elaborate dupattas can have bādlā fardī work.