National Institute of Fashion Technology
The textiles documented were commissioned for Visvakarma, a series of exhibitions on Indian handmade textiles, between the early 1980s and ‘90s.
Birds and Animals (2022) by Curated by NIFT BengaluruNational Institute of Fashion Technology
Birds and Animals
Birds and Animals in Indian Textiles was the title and theme of the last of the Visvakarma exhibitions, a tribute to the late ornithologist and naturalist Dr Salim Ali.
Birds and Animals (2022) by Curated by NIFT BengaluruNational Institute of Fashion Technology
With the commissions reaching a decade long journey by now, their makers are seen to be uninhibited by the limitations of material, techniques and conventional designs.
Birds and Animals (2022) by Curated by NIFT BengaluruNational Institute of Fashion Technology
The textiles seem to pose a question on universality in aesthetics whatever be the material one chooses to express it. The pieces on display invite attention to art and artistry on textile panel achieved by weaving as well as surface design.
Morkuti Pichhavai
Here, the monsoon is represented through peacocks — aside from the intricacy of details in the painting, what is noteworthy is the balance achieved in the composition of three white peacocks with the blue, against the stark red of the ground.
Peacocks
A richly metallic tissue fabric, is used as the base here, in a blend of weaving and hand painting. The textile reflects light differently when viewed from different angles, introducing a dynamic sculptural dimension.
Morpankhi
The natural iridescence of peacock feathers is both complemented in its rarity of material by the use of silver yarn here, as it is contrasted through colour.
Horse Heads
The highlight of this commission is the quality of free hand brush strokes achieved through tonal shades of colour, informed by those of the amethyst.
Macchh Ki Suiyan
The Tanchoi is satin-based, and its structure is believed to have Chinese origins. It was woven in the 19th century in Gujarat in western India, and its absorption into the Varanasi repertory is believed to be from early to mid 20th century onwards.
Birds and Paisley
This panel exemplifies such an attitude, in which hand-drawn imagery of birds and foliage are superimposed with that of the enduring motif of Ambi/Manga that became paisley in western design vocabulary.
Birds and Animals (2022) by Curated by NIFT BengaluruNational Institute of Fashion Technology
From the hand drawn Pichhavai peacocks to gyasar length that has real peacock feathers woven into the fabric, jewel toned horse heads and buxom annapakshis (swans), the textiles stop you in your way with their rich colours and arresting finesse.
Text: Susan Thomas, Dr. Ravikumar R, Mayank Kaul
Photographs: Sanjeev C M, Chirodeep Chaudhuri