Bagh Prints from Madhya Pradesh
Preserving purity, identity and tradition in Bagh printing technique from Bagh in Madhya Pradesh
Dastkari Haat Samiti
Dastkari Haat Samiti
Bagh Weaving and Printing: The family of Ismail Suleiman Khatri (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Bagh printers of Madhya Pradesh
Bagh printing in Madhya Pradesh is a specialised form of wooden
hand-block printing, originally practised across the regions in the Indus
Valley. The Khatri community of dyers of cloth lived along the Sindhu, or the Indus, because of their need for plenty of clear water to wash and
prepare their textiles. The area included what later became Pakistan and India. They claim their history goes back 1000 years. A branch of the Khatris became settlers in the
village of Bagh in Dhar district of Madhya Pradesh.
Ismail Suleiman Khatri and his five sons have established themselves as highly skilled practitioners of Bagh printing.
Bagh Weaving and Printing: Umar Faruk Khatri shows new layout developed using traditional blocks (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
He, his wife Jetun Bi, and his sons, have all received national awards for their work.
Bagh Weaving and Printing: A new layout developed using traditional blocks (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
They take pride in their craft and in being upholders of their tradition.
The history of printing in Bagh, Madhya Pradesh
The Khatri community of Bagh printers in Madhya Pradesh are extremely proud of their history and printing tradition. They believe they have a responsibility to remain faithful to their line of work and the specific identity associated with it. Hand block printing in Madhya Pradesh served the local market of Adivasi and Rajput communities who used printed fabrics for their dress and attire.
Bagh Weaving and Printing: Khatri Muhammad Rafiq at his property (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The ancestors of the Bagh printers came to where they are presently settled for the clear water in the area and proximity to their markets.
Bagh Weaving and Printing: Drying of fabric (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Bagh printers chose the village of Bagh because of its water and the climatic conditions. The water of the rivers here are believed to have the optimal mineral composition to enhance the colours in printing.
Bagh Weaving and Printing: History (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Umar Faruk, one of Ismail Khatri’s sons, explains the centrality of tradition to the success of Bagh prints.
Preserving the printing blocks
Many cultural handmade objects and textiles in India have other craft forms and skills required to complete their own production. With the growth of machine printing, screen printing and now digital printing, the existence and preservation of hand block printed textiles are treasures worth valuing. Printing blocks are precious for printers, and the Khatris take good care of their blocks. Besides the blocks in use, they also look after old blocks as these are a repository of designs.
Bagh Weaving and Printing: Old blocks (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The Khatri family have carefully preserved the designs and printing blocks associated with Bagh.
Bagh Weaving and Printing: Old blocks (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
New developments are based on these references. They say some designs are inspired by the Taj Mahal and famous forts of India.
The versatility of wooden blocks
In earlier times they used natural indigo blue fabric, but in the absence of availability of the natural indigo plant over time, they turned to iron rust for black, and alum for deep red on a white background. Their designs are inspired by geometric and floral shapes. The specific combination of prints and these traditional colours are exclusive to Bagh fabric.
Bagh Weaving and Printing: How a family of blocks is combined (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The four primary designs are nariyal (a coconut shape), tikona (a triangle, or many triangles mounted to form a peak), gehwar (a fan-like shape), and lehar (waves).
These four designs from the main collection are called a parivar (family).
Bagh Weaving and Printing: Printing process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
National award winner Umar Farukh Khatri demonstrates how printing is done on bamboo chick.
Bagh Weaving and Printing: Blocks used together (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Bagh printing has a distinct three-colour palette.
Bagh Weaving and Printing: Blocks used together (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
There is a method to the selection of blocks that are used together, and the sequence of printing.
Bagh Weaving and Printing: Blocks used together (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The blocks come together in a planned layout.
Bagh Weaving and Printing: Blocks used together (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Blank spots are filled in with colours with extreme precision.
Bagh Weaving and Printing: Printing process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
This clip shows how the artisan fills in the colour with the help of wooden blocks.
Bagh Weaving and Printing: Geometric layouts (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The prints are mostly geometric or floral.
Bagh Weaving and Printing: Printed fabric (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Seen here are a few examples of the range of designs.
The way forward
With changing lifestyles and the advent of synthetic fabrics, the printing industry took a big blow with several printing centres gradually closing down. However, in the village of Bagh in Dhar district, printer Ismail Suleiman Khatri did not allow his spirits to flag. Even in the face of penury, he did not lose faith in his traditional craft.
Bagh Weaving and Printing: Bagh printing on natural fibre mats (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
He found his way through perseverance and a commitment to refinement, seeking new markets that appreciated his unique textiles.
His family stuck by him, and together they became an inspiration to others in their small community.
Bagh Weaving and Printing: Bagh printing on natural fibre mats (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Umar Faruk has tried out new materials, such as reed and other natural fibres, for making printed mats in Bagh style.
Bagh Weaving and Printing: Fabric created for a designer (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The younger generation is interested in developing textiles for the fashion market, taking Bagh printing to new frontiers.
Interactions with urban designers through smart phones, WhatsApp and computers help them expand their outreach and repertoire.
Bagh Weaving and Printing: At the family's retail showroom (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Family ties are a strong binding force amongst the printers.
Bagh Weaving and Printing: Khatri Ismail Suleiman's wife, Jetun Bi (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Ismail Suleiman's wife Jetun Bi has also received a National Award for her work.
As parents, Ismail Suleiman and Jetun Bi are an inspiration to their sons.
Bagh Weaving and Printing: At the family's retail showroom (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The brothers work together as a family while also competing among themselves. They divide marketing times and markets so that each have the opportunity to flourish.
Bagh Weaving and Printing: Blocks used together (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Read more about Bagh Printing here:
- Treating of the cloth for Bagh Printing
- Process of Bagh Printing
Text: Aloka Hiremath, Jaya Jaitly
Photography: Suleiman Merchant
Artisans: Ismail Suleiman Khatri, family and co-workers
Ground Facilitator: Charu Verma
Documentary Video: Suleiman Merchant
Curation: Ruchira Verma
