Telia Rumal

In Arab countries, the Muslim women used to wear these Telia Rumals as head scarves. This fabric gave them a cool feel during blazing summers. And in winters, it kept them warm.

The fishermen in Mumbai and Andhra Pradesh used them as lungi (loincloth), turbans or shoulder cloths because the oil in this cloth did not let salt water seep through.

This fabric was a hot seller in Andhra Pradesh for about 20-25 years. At that time, the designs used to be simple stars and dots representations. But when this fabric came to the Telangana region, the design underwent dramatic changes.

Once India became independent, the Nizam rule ended and the zamindari system was also abolished. As a result, the fabric so entrenched in the status quo, also began to disappear.

In contrast, the same cloth was used by fishermen in Chirala as a loin cloth when they went fishing. Apparently, the red colour and the oily fragrance also played a part in attracting the fish and the fishermen never returned empty-handed.

Older Telia Rumals only had geometric motifs. That began to change in the early part of the 20th century and figurative designs began to be incorporated.

Designs like lions, birds, elephants, and even clocks and aeroplanes were incorporated.

Gajam Govardhan shows his award-winning Telia Rumal of 100 motifs.

Traditionally, the yarn is treated with oils of sesame and castor seed, along with sheep dung. This process took 21 days.

While the tie-dyed warp is on the loom, the tie-dyed weft is being prepared here.

The process starts with the design being plotted on a graph, that is then transferred through ties onto the yarn.

The yarn goes through several steps during weaving before the final finished product is rendered.

The weaver's daughter displays his creation based on the Telia Rumal design seen in the graph.

The Telia Rumal design has been adapted to new products, such as the saris, to remain relevant and contemporary.

Detail from a sari based on the Telia Rumal style.

Read more about art of Telia Rumal here:

- Weaving Ikat
- Weaving Telia Rumal