Kanchipuram: The City of Temples and Silk

A walk through the city of Kanchipuram, its ancient temples and the impact on silk weaving

Dastkari Haat Samiti

Dastkari Haat Samiti

Kanjivaram Weaving: Varadaraja Perumal Temple (2017-08)Dastkari Haat Samiti

A city of temples and silk

Kanchipuram, a
district headquarter and a busy modern Indian city, has a history dating back to the 3rd century. From the 3rd to 17th
centuries CE Kanchipuram was the seat of power for the Pallava, Chola and Vijayanagara
Empires, flourishing as a centre of commerce and learning. With each dynasty
adding to its glorious architectural heritage through temples, Kanchipuram became an important place of pilgrimage as well. 

Even today, Kanchipuram is known as the city of a thousand temples, and continues to be one of the seven most important pilgrim centres of Hinduism. The city also has more than 45,000 expert weavers belonging to Devangas and the Pattu Saliyar community. These weaving communities were reputed for their weaving skills and are known to have migrated in masses from Andhra Pradesh to Kanchipuram in the 15th century, lending to Kanchipuram's rise to eminence as a centre for trade. 

Kanjivaram Weaving: Varadaraja Perumal Temple (2017-08)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The temples of Kanchipuram are living centres for worship and pilgrimage, clocking in thousands of pilgrim visits every day throughout the year.

Kanjivaram Weaving: Varadaraja Perumal Temple (2017-08)Dastkari Haat Samiti

This wall mural depicts deities and worshipers.

Given its rich cultural past, Kanchipuram still boasts of exemplary examples of arts and crafts - mostly of religious nature.

Kanjivaram Weaving: Kanjivaram Sari (Contemporary)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The city of Kachipuram is still renowned for its handloom industry, explained easily by the ceremonial and ritual importance of silk embedded in the very fabric of the Indian cultural context.

Kanjivaram Weaving: Pilgrims visiting the Kamakshi Amman Temple (2017-08)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Kanchipuram’s famous silks have been, and continue to be, important for devotees.

Kanjivaram Weaving: Varadaraja Perumal Temple (2017-08)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Priests use the Kanchipuram silk to adorn the deities in many temples.

Kanjivaram Sari (2017-08)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Being in close proximity to each other, the temple architecture and design have been a constant source of inspiration for the weavers of Kanchipuram.

Intricate traditional designs, like the temple gopuram and peacocks, are woven in gold Zari.

Kanjivaram Weaving (2017-08)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The designs in Kanjivaram saris were inspired by the designs of southern Indian temples, or from natural elements like birds and leaves among other things.

Kanjivaram Weaving: Ekambareswarar Temple (2017-08)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Some of the best known patterns in Kanchipuram saree borders is the ‘Rudraksham’, representing the holy Rudraksha beads.

Kanjivaram Weaving: Ekambareswarar Temple (2017-08)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Pattern inspiration for the saris come from the ‘gopuram’ representing the temples, ‘mayilkan’, or the peacock eye, and ‘kuyilkan‘, or the nightingale eye.

Kanjivaram Weaving: Ekambareswarar Temple (2017-08)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The patterns on temple walls and columns in Kanchipuram often find their way into the weaves of the Kanjivaram saris.

Kanjivaram Weaving: Ekambareswarar Temple (2017-08)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Many of the traditional motifs in the weaves can be traced directly to the design vocabulary of the temples.

Kanjivaram Weaving: Kanjivaram Sari (Contemporary)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Credits: Story

Text: Aloka Hiremath and Jaya Jaitly
Photography: Chirodeep Chaudhuri
Artisans: Kesavan, Krishnamoorthy, Velu, Lakshmi Dye House and artisans in the community
Ground Facilitator: Shalini Shashi
Curation: Ruchira Verma

Credits: All media
The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.
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