Round, Sweet, and an Argentinian Icon: the Alfajor in all its Forms
A much-loved sweet treat with different regional variations
Alfajor de maizena (2021-02-05/2021-02-05) by Juan Pablo LanciottiGustar
Alfajores (a type of sandwich cookie) are one of Argentina’s most popular sweet treats. Almost every province makes its own, and they vary greatly depending on where they are made. There are fillings to suit all tastes, ranging from artisan versions with gourmet aspirations, to the mass-produced versions sold on most street corners.
Preparando Alfajores (2021-03-08/2021-03-10) by Pablo ValdaGustar
Where did this national sweet treat come from? The origins of the Argentinian alfajor lie in its Arabic namesake, which is still made in Spain today. In fact, the word is derived from the Hispano-Arabic word al-hasu, meaning filling. It is believed to have originated in Al-Andalus, as Spain under Muslim rule (711–1492) was known. This era left Spain with a culinary legacy that can still be seen today.
The local version
It was brought to South America with the first Spanish conquistadors, in around the 15th century. However, over time, the alfajor has developed its own identity, shaped by local influences.
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In Rio de la Plata, probably as a result of problems obtaining specific ingredients and spices, alfajores began to appear in a whole range of different versions.
A uniquely Argentinian twist
The creativity of chefs of European, indigenous, and African descent, many of whom were professionals and street vendors, also helped in the creation of a new, national alfajor recipe.
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By the 17th century, alfajores were established as a sweet staple of the local community. The first alfajores were sold from baskets and trays hung around the necks of vendors. Everyone had their own recipe, and then the bakeries jumped on board the bandwagon.
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Over time, and facing growing demand, alfajores began to be produced on a larger scale. Bakeries were at the forefront of this development. Some of the most famous included Casa Chammas in Cordoba (1869), or Española in Mendoza, in the 1850s.
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Kioscos, as Argentinian newsstands are known, began to appear in the early 20th century. They originally sold cigarettes and candies and were the first to sell alfajores made by local brands to their customers.
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Argentinian-style alfajores
It may share a name with the Andalusian version, but Argentinian alfajores are very different in appearance, flavor, and tradition. The most basic version consists of two cookies stuck together with dulce de leche, although they may have different ingredients or coatings.
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Something for everyone
Today, there are almost as many alfajor varieties as there are people who make them. There are different flavored doughs and a range of fillings such as jellies or creams.
Preparando Alfajores (2021-03-08/2021-03-10) by Pablo ValdaGustar
Many of Argentina’s regions can be identified by their unique methods of making certain recipes, and one of these is alfajores. Every alfajor recipe reflects the identity of a province, region, or town.
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Alfajores have become the quintessential Argentinian souvenir. They are the most-purchased item by tourists, who choose the versions that best represent the province or city they are visiting.
Córdoba
The landlocked province of Córdoba has a long history of alfajor production that dates back to the ancient tradition of pastry-making in convents. Every October, the National Alfajor Festival is held in the town of La Falda.
Catamarca
In northern Argentinian provinces such as Salta, Jujuy, and Catamarca, alfajores are made using flour from sweet white corn, a variety of sweetcorn that is rich in starch. The cookies are filled with dulce de leche.
Other sweet treats
Although dulce de leche is the traditional, preferred accompaniment for alfajores, it is also common for them to be filled with fruit jellies such as quince, fig, or raspberry.
Mendoza
Every province aims to give its alfajores their own, local twist. In Mendoza, for example, which is renowned for its vineyards, alfajores are filled with dulce de leche and a Malbec wine center.
The first alfajor-making company
Until 1945, Argentina’s alfajores were made in local bakeries. In that year, a family-run business launched Guaymallén alfajores, becoming the country’s first mass-market alfajor factory.
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In 1947, in the beach resort of Mar del Plata, the specialist confectioner Demetrio Elíades, along with two of his colleagues, created the Havanna Alfajor. Over the years, this has become the most prominent and internationally renowned variety of Argentinian alfajor.
Today, that same company has over 200 branches across the country, and around 148 in other countries. Following the emergence and subsequent success of Havanna, an Alfajor Route was soon established along the Argentinian coast.
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In 2009, the Distrito Productivo Alfajorero del Partido de la Costa (Alfajor-Producing District of the Coastal Area) was established, to encourage competition over the awarding of an origin label among producers hoping for their brand to be associated with the local area. Buying alfajores at the beach in Argentina is now a long-standing tradition.
Text from the book, The Argentinian Alfajor: History of an Icon (Alfajor Argentino, Historia De Un Icono) by Jorge D'Agostini. Editors: Diego Marinelli and Ayelén Iñigo
