Journey to the Alcarria: Stage 3

The following heady passage is from the third stage of the book "Journey to the Alcarria," in this project that combines the themes of literature and life: "Swarms of bees are buzzing in the hives of an apiary not ten steps away from the traveler, and the countryside has a deep penetrating distant odor which is almost painful."

While traveling through the Alcarria, Camilo José Cela ate according to local customs, both at inns and on the road.

In "Journey to the Alcarria," Camilo José Cela wrote: "The old man gets up and stretches. He folds the blanket carefully, loads it on the donkey and yawns."

Travelers really should get up early to make the most of the cool of the morning and enjoy the sunrises.

As he traveled from Brihuega to Cifuentes, the author of "Journey to the Alcarria," described the villages on either side, Valderrebollo and Masegoso. Both are must-sees today. On his way, he observed some local men "going out to the fields, with the pair of mules in front of them and the little dog running behind."

Traveling along the roads that the Nobel laureate in Literature, Camilo José Cela, walked in 1946, you can see that the local population has successfully preserved and modernized their customs.

Traveling through the valley of the Tajuña River, Cela wrote, "Gorrión the donkey, the old man, and the traveler cross the bridge over the Tajuña. A fisherman is walking up and down the bank of the river. The town is off at one side with the sun behind it."

"Masegoso, lying at a crossroads, is a big dusty town, silver-colored with touches of gold in the morning light."

Journey to the Alcarria

Camilo José Cela

It is really worth walking through the village from the crossroads.

"The old man sits down in the ditch and the traveler lies on his back and looks up at some little clouds, graceful as doves, which are floating in the sky."

Journey to the Alcarria 

Camilo José Cela

This passage will awaken our senses, no matter where we are.

"A flock of graceful tame ducks is swimming in the millpond..."

Journey to the Alcarria

Camilo José Cela

There are still ducks living in the pond today: living proof of one of the immutable elements of nature.

Historic and public monuments dot the streets of Cifuentes with curiosities, interesting details, and architectural styles.

Plaza del Ayuntamiento, the square where the town hall stands, is the ideal place to take a break during your visit.

Camilo José Cela spent the night at the home of his friend Arbeteta, in a large house "with three French balconies as graceful as the loges in an opera house."

The building remains in good condition and travelers still pass by it today.

Suckling lamb is one of the Alcarria's most highly-prized foods, served roasted or in a stew. While gourmet versions do exist, you will also find it in any local's house.

The flavor of the lamb varies, depending on whether it is roasted or stewed.

Cifuentes Castle sits on top of a promontory, close to the town. Its construction was ordered in 1324 by Juan Manuel, who was the grandson of Ferdinand III of Castile, nephew of Alfonso X of Castile, and uncle to Sancho IV of Castile.

"The river Cifuentes has its source right under the houses. No sooner has it begun than it turns a mill; the whole town is built on a spring."

Journey to the Alcarria

Camilo José Cela

The Alcarria is also a garden, as you can see walking along the Cifuentes Canal.