Journey to the Alcarria: Stage 5

The following illustrative passage is from the fifth stage of the book "Journey to the Alcarria," in this project that combines literature and life: "As they come out on the stretch of land called the Fuente de la Galinda, the Tetas de Viana suddenly thrust themselves into view."

Alcarrian honey is famous around the world. In the last century, it was common to see Alcarrian honey-sellers in Madrid walking around offering their products and shouting, "Honey-seller, plenty of honey! Alcarrian honey!"

It's a good way to start the day.

"The Tagus meanders and can be seen from far away, completely surrounded by trees."

Journey to the Alcarria 

Camilo José Cela

This is the view when leaving Trillo, looking towards Viana de Mondéjar across the Dehesa hill.

In "Journey to the Alcarria," Cela wrote: "On La Dehesa the herbage is harsh and fragrant, composed of hawthorn, rosemary, lavender, sage, marjoram, broom, gorse, spurge flax, spike, rockrose, dwarf oak, and thyme. You can scarcely see it but you get dizzy smelling it."

And on the road from Trillo to the Tetas de Viana twin mountains, that is exactly how it feels.

The countryside surrounding the Tetas de Viana is typical of the Alcarria: it is close to a large city yet a world away.

"Water's very treacherous, you know; sometimes you catch something you didn't have before.."

Journey to the Alcarria

Camilo José Cela

Passages like this show the popular wisdom of people who regularly walk in the countryside and have healthy habits.

Camilo José Cela did not reach the top of the Tetas de Viana on his first visit in 1946, or on his second in 1986. If you are physically fit, it is highly recommended.

Only one of the Tetas de Viana can be climbed easily: the one that lies to the south. The recommended route is from Viana de Mondéjar as it is less steep than the approach from Trillo.

"The Tetas are much uglier seen from the south; they look ungainly, malformed, crooked, as it were."

Journey to the Alcarria
Camilo José Cela

"Viana de Mondejar is a yellow-colored town laid out on a blunt blackish hill."

Journey to the Alcarria

Camilo José Cela

As well as being on the Journey to the Alcarria, this town is also part of the Camino de la Lana (Wool Route) of the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage.

"As far as La Puerta the road goes along the banks, or very close to the banks, of the stream; sometimes it wanders away and then garden plots begin to appear between the stream and the road."

Journey to the Alcarria

Camilo José Cela

This is how he describes his arrival at the bridge over the Solana River: a place to rest and cool off.

"Camilo José Cela took a nap in this house on June 9, 1946. We are poor, as you can see, but nobody who has passed through La Puerta has left without some bread."

"The traveler pokes his nose into the kitchen. His pack is almost empty; only a hard-boiled egg and two oranges are left. The woman of the house offers him a few chunks of cooked goat's meat and a glass of milk, also goat's. The traveler thinks about Malta fever and then about the saying that the horn of hunger gores deepest of all..."

Journey to the Alcarria

Camilo José Cela

Camilo José Cela traveled around the Alcarria in 1946. The Entrepeñas reservoir was opened in 1956, which is why it does not appear in the book. It is located in the Alcarria Baja region of Guadalajara, on the Tagus River, and is also fed by other rivers, including the Valdetrigo, Barranco Grande, La Solana, and Empolveda.

The viaduct over the Entrepeñas reservoir was built to enable Alcarria's modern-day road traffic to cross it.

"The room is almost hermetically closed; it is like a box, with no ventilation at all, not even a skylight, and the traveler doesn't wake up till ten in the morning."

Journey to the Alcarria

Camilo José Cela

There are several different opinions on whether Camilo José Cela slept in a prison cell in Budia. This account reflect the author's amusing re-telling of the event in his book. Today, 70 years later, the debate still rages on.

"Eight or ten mules with no harness come trotting into the plaza, driven by a tall young man in a black blouse; they take a long drink in the trough..."

Journey to the Alcarria

Camilo José Cela

The fountain in the square at Budia is a refreshing welcome to the town.

"Budia is a large town with old houses, and probably has had a splendid past."

Journey to the Alcarria

Camilo José Cela

As the writer rightly assumed, Budia has an interesting past. In 1434, it acquired the status of a town, although it must have been founded before the time of the Arab rule.