Journey to the Alcarria: Stage 7

This evocative passage is from the seventh stage of the book "Journey to the Alcarria," in this project that combines the themes of literature and life: "Sometimes one has frightening sensations of well-being, strong enough to move mountains; one must fight against them courageously, as one would fight an enemy.And then, with the passage of time, they leave something like a drop of gall in one's heart."

"It is still dark when he wakes up; he takes a swallow of wine, eats two oranges and a hunk of bread, and starts walking more vigorously than ever, never feeling the pack or his legs on the road."

Journey to the Alcarria

Camilo José Cela

An unusual but energy-rich breakfast.

The Royal Spanish Academy defines a viaduct as, "A bridge-like structure that carries a road over a hollow."

"One and a half or 2 kilometers further on, at the crossroads that leads to Chillarón del Rey, the traveler unfolds his blanket and goes to sleep at the side of the road."

Journey to the Alcarria

Camilo José Cela

When Cela was traveling around the Alcarria, the Entrepeñas reservoir did not exist.

The village of Chillarón del Rey is located just a few miles away from the Entrepeñas reservoir, which was previously known as "Mar de Castilla."

The village lies at the bottom of the small valley of the short Saucejo stream, which runs into Entrepeñas. It is surrounded by vineyards, cereal crops, olive groves, and small family gardens.

Behind the village is the hill that the locals know as "Cimajo." It is made of gypsum and limestone, and is rich in mica.

The village is on the road between the Alcarria and the mountains ("La Sierra"), and a crossing point for several different hiking routes. These include the Journey to the Alcarria, a branch of the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage, and the GR-113 Tagus Nature Trail.

"The first faint light of dawn finds him already in sight of Pareja, in a region of rich, well-cultivated fields of reddish clay, full of small plots among which he can see an occasional brickyard with the people already hard at work."

Journey to the Alcarria

Camilo José Cela

Travelers can still see that same, endless red land today, 70 years after the book was published.

There are hives buzzing with bees on the road to Pareja. Beehives house colonies of as many as 80,000 bees, consisting of 3 types: workers, drones, and the queen bee.

The Spanish word for diversion dam, "azud," comes from an Arabic word meaning "barrier." An "azud" is a structure that raises the water level of a river, or any other body of water, with the aim of diverting part of it into other water courses. It is similar to a weir. This one didn't exist in 1946, when Camilo José Cela went on his journey.

The Pareja dam is in the Empolveda stream, within the well-known Entrepeñas reservoir. It has a number of different functions as a recreation and leisure area, and as a water supply during the summer and in periods of drought.

"The plaza is square and roomy; in the center is a fountain with a number of spouts and a basin all around."

Journey to the Alcarria

Camilo José Cela

Pareja's main square is a must-see.

"Sometimes one has frightening sensations of well-being, strong enough to move mountains; one must fight against them courageously, as one would fight an enemy."

Journey to the Alcarria

Camilo José Cela

This passage was written in Pareja and is enough to make you want to visit the village. You can have a quick dip in the dam, go on a short walk or bike ride, enjoy water sports, and watch the local birdlife.

"The plaza is square and roomy; in the center is a fountain with a number of spouts and a basin all around, and an ancient, heavy-branched patriarchal elm tree."

Journey to the Alcarria 

Camilo José Cela

These are the words that appear on the commemorative plaque.

"Inside, a cat is sleeping in the sun on the corner of the esparto-grass mat, and a little boy is pissing gloriously, challengingly, off the balcony."

Journey to the Alcarria

Camilo José Cela

Throughout the book, the writer shares his observations on the mischief of children. In that sense, the world has not changed in the 70 years since it was written.

"At lunchtime the traveler ate hungrily and abundantly."

Journey to the Alcarria

Camilo José Cela

Making the Journey to the Alcarria on foot requires a good diet that will provide enough energy to complete the trip.