Flat Weaves of Uttar Pradesh

The process of weaving

Dastkari Haat Samiti

Dastkari Haat Samiti

Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Carpets from Mirzapur-Bhadohi

Mirzapur-Bhadohi in Uttar Pradesh is a major hub for the weaving of floor coverings of various types. It was once, and continues to be, a major centre for dhurries and kilims, pile and knotted carpets. It is believed that the skill set of the artisans here can be traced back to the Mughal era. 

Product Range by Abdul KalamDastkari Haat Samiti

With time and exposure, the versatile weavers in the region now make products that find their way to markets all over the country and abroad, accommodating ideas and demands from clienteles everywhere.

Product Range (2017) by Abdul KalamDastkari Haat Samiti

A wide range of designs and techniques can now be found in the area.

Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Where it starts: Envisioning the design

Early designs had a strong Persian influence. Over time and with exposure, the weavers now make products for markets in India and abroad. The weaving process starts with the master craftsman hand painting the design, and indicating the colours and layout of the proposed rug.

Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Dyed and natural hanks of wool stacked for weaving.

Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

From design conceptualisation to translation, and from yarn to a finished product, the process of creating a kilim product can take from a few days to several months, depending on the complexity of the product.

Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The design is an original hand-painted work that indicates the colours and layout of the proposed rug.

Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The design is specified on the sheet with indicated yarn colours.

Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Lining it up: Preparing the yarn

Once the design is ready, wool hanks are detangled and dyed yarn is wound on a beam before it can be put on the warp. The workshop has multiple hanks of dyed and un-dyed yarns ready to be used.

Process of weaving (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The workshop has various equipment to aid the weaving process, like this winding beam. It is used to ready the yarn before the weaving process can begin.

Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The workshop has various counts of wool.

Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Wool hanks are detangled before they are put on the spindles.

Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Spools of warp are being readied.

Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The warp yarn is winded on the winding beam.

Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Warp is passed through the reed.

Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Details of how the warp is passed through the reed.

Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The ready warp is tied on the warp beam.

Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Broken wool is joined by hand.

Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

In a vertical loom, warped beam can be seen on the top of a loom.

Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Weaving process

Flat weave floor coverings comprise of dhurries and rugs which use a variety of techniques for the interaction of warp and weft. The distinguishing feature is that they do not involve a raised pile, as in carpets. Instead, they use interlacing, interlocking, wrapping and a combination of techniques, that may also involve more than a single warp and/or weft.

Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Inventory of wool inside the weavers' work shed.

Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

A weaver discusses the design with the master weaver.

Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

A wide range of designs and techniques are now woven in this area.

Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

This picture shows how the design looks on paper and on the final Kilim product.

Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

A weaver is at work on the loom.

Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Another weaver detangles the wool in the meantime.

Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Inserting the wool yarns during the weaving.

Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Flat weave floor coverings comprise of dhurries and rugs using a variety of techniques for the interaction of warp and weft.

Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Weaving takes place in sheds or in the extremely humble homes of the weavers.

Process of weaving (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Weavers in their workshed area.

Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Weaving a kilim behind the warp.

Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

A weaver busy at work on the loom.

Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The backside of the kilim on the loom.

Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Details of the weaving a kilim.

Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Here, two weavers weave the same kilim.

Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Process of weaving the kilim.

Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The paper design and the final kilim, as seen on the loom.

Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Cutting away: Removing the excess

Once the carpet is taken off the loom, the extra yarn and wool is cut. The weavers also hand-knot the edges to the carpet to give it a finished look.

Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Ends of the kilims are hand-knotted before they are sold.

Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Hand-knotting the loose ends.

Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Cutting away the extra wool, post the weaving process.

Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Tools used to cut the extra bits of wool.

Kilim and Carpets : Tools used in weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Various tools are used for the finishing of the carpets.

Kilim and Carpets : Tools used in weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Various tools are used for the finishing of the carpets.

Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Sometimes unfinished dhurries are used to make bags or seat covers.

Kilim and Carpets : Finishing the carpet after weaving (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Burning the excess away: Finishing process

The carpet, after the weaving process, undergoes a finishing process of burning and washing. The burning process ensures the removal of extra and protruding wool yarn after the entire floor covering is woven.

Kilim and Carpets : Finishing the carpet after weaving (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Brushing and cleaning the kilim before burning it.

Kilim and Carpets : Finishing the carpet after weaving (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The burning process ensures the removal of the extras.

Kilim and Carpets : Finishing the carpet after weaving (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

A flame is run over the top layer of the Kilim, to give it a finished appearance.

Kilim and Carpets : Finishing the carpet after weaving (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The flame burns away the extra wool on the kilim.

Kilim and Carpets : Finishing the carpet after weaving (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

After the burning process, it is then cleaned to prepare the kilim for a wash.

Kilim and Carpets : Finishing the carpet after weaving (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The dhurrie is taken away to be washed before the loose edges are tied and finished by hand.

Kilim and Carpets : Washing the Kilim after weaving (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Washing and drying of the ready carpets

The final step in the finishing process is washing. Carpets are washed with water and a mild acid solution. Once washed, they are put out to dry before being packaged off to various sale centres. 

Kilim and Carpets : Washing the Kilim after weaving (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The carpet is washed with water.

Kilim and Carpets : Washing the Kilim after weaving (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The kilim is cleaned in the process and all the excess water is removed.

Kilim and Carpets : Washing the Kilim after weaving (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The excess water is squeezed out manually after the wash.

Kilim and Carpets : Washing the Kilim after weaving (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The carpet is washed again with a mild acid solution.

Kilim and Carpets : Washing the Kilim after weaving (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Washing in progress.

Kilim and Carpets : Washing the Kilim after weaving (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The feet do all the hard scrubbing while washing the floor covering.

Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Kilims drying after washing.

The floor coverings are dried and then rolled to be taken for the final processing. The finishing unit is not far away from the dyeing unit.

Kilim weaving process : Drying the carpets (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Carpets are spread out for drying after the wash.

Kilim weaving process : Drying the carpets (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The dhurrie that was seen on the loom is now drying in the sun after being washed.

Kilim and Carpets : Weaving process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Since dhurrie weavers, like Abdul Kalam, are enthusiastic entrepreneurs, a good stock is kept ready to be taken to the bazaar or an exhibition at short notice.

Mirzapur's Carpet weaving (2018)Dastkari Haat Samiti

See more of how Kilim weaving in Mirzapur is done.

Product Range (2017) by Abdul KalamDastkari Haat Samiti

Read more about Kilim Floor Coverings here:

- The Community
- Dyeing Process

Range of Products
Credits: Story

Text: Jaya Jaitly
Photography: Ankit Kumar
Artisans: Abdul Kalam and fellow weavers
Ground Facilitator: Ankit Kumar
Curation: Aradhana Nagpal

Cinematic Video:
- Director: Jyoti Neggi
- Production: Studio Gola

Credits: All media
The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.
Explore more
Related theme
Crafted in India
Meet the makers. Explore their craft. Share their stories.
View theme
Home
Discover
Play
Nearby
Favorites