Deshish: The Ancient Art of Crushing Wheat
Learn more about the Egyptians love of wheat and the unique way of preparing it for heart warming winter stews.
Wheat as we know it
Egyptians have always consumed wheat, especially in the form of bread. It is hard to imagine a meal that does not include a loaf of bread. Wheat is prepared in many ways and is prepared to get the best taste out of each meal. But one stands out.
What is Deshish?
Deshish means 'crushed' in Arabic and is the food of choice for special occasions. It is filling, nutritious and easy to make in large quantities. To ‘deesh’ the wheat, literally means to crush the wheat. It is an in-between of whole grain and flour.
Stone mill (2018-01-28) by NawayaNawaya
The rahaya - an ancient old grinding tool
The grains were traditionally coarsely crushed using a rahaya. This ancient piece of “equipment” is a hand operated mill made of two circular pieces of flintstone. The top one has a small opening in the center, where you drop the dried wheat grains.
Making deshish with stone mill (2020-09-05) by NawayaNawaya
Once a staple in most households for freshly grinding their own grains, the rahaya is now a rare sight. The few households who keep it, mostly do so as a contribution to the charity work done around the saints birthdays (the Moulids).
Stone mill used to make deshish (crushed wheat) (2020-09-05) by NawayaNawaya
People make food offerings to the poor and the visitors of the Moulid, and deshish is the food of choice for such offerings as it is filling, nutritious and easy to make in large quantities.
Stone milling wheat (2020-09-05) by NawayaNawaya
Grinding the wheat
Grinding the wheat is typically done by women who sit cross legged on the ground and slowly move the heavy top stone. The deliberately slow and consistent movement of the top stone on the lower stone. If the grinder is moved faster the wheat will be ground finer, making flour suitable for baking, but not for the beloved deshish dish.
Sifting crushed wheat to make deshish (2020-09-05) by NawayaNawaya
Sifting the wheat
The crushed wheat and flour are collected from the millstone. Because the process isn't very precise, the women sift the deshish again to separate the finer flour.
How to use Deshish in stews and soup
Deshish is perfect for making a hearty dish. It retains the wheat's flavour and texture. It truly warms the body and heart on cold winter days.
Deshish bel gedeed - crushed barley meat stew (2018-01-27) by NawayaNawaya
Deshish broth from meat and poultry
Deshish broth can be made from meat or poultry. The meat is removed from the broth, and refried later in ghee and served on top of the deshish.
Deshish el gamal ready to eat (2020-09-05) by NawayaNawaya
Deshish for a delicious broth
Deshish is added and cooked in a broth, with spices for almost 1 hour to create a thick consistency. Tomato sauce and spices add depth and warming flavor to deshish.
Deshish used in soups
The coarse grain is used to thicken soups and stews, as it keeps its consistency when cooked in broth. Deshish can be served as a soup or in the form of a fattah, poured over dry bataw bread.
Curator: Laura Tabet
Research: Dalia Basiouny
Photography: Nada Elissa
Special thanks to the kitchen team at the Blue Lotus Inn in Sakkara
