Zari Zardozi Embroidery of Old Delhi

Specialised markets at both ends of the production chain

Dastkari Haat Samiti

Dastkari Haat Samiti

Zari Zardozi: Zari Work (2018-04-12)Dastkari Haat Samiti

A traditional craft with a thriving modern market, zari zardozi embroidery is practised in various clusters in India. One of these is the older quarters of the capital city of Delhi. Here, the tradition of metallic embroidery on rich fabrics can be traced back to courtly costumes and trappings going back several centuries. 

Zari Zardozi: Zari work (2018-04-10)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Old Delhi is not only a production centre, it is also a specialised source for the raw materials required for this ornate craft. It boasts of Asia’s largest store for beads and sequins. There are also hosts of small shops specialising in specific types of spangles and threads. Manufacturers, traders and craftspeople come here to source their requirements. Weddings are the primary market for zari zardozi work today. 

Zari Zardozi: Life in Old Delhi (2018-04-10)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The markets of the Old City of Delhi comprise many narrow streets packed with little shops. Each street has its specialisation.

The search for zari zardozi embroidery leads to Kinari Bazar, one such locality.

Zari Zardozi: Tools & raw material (2018-04-10)Dastkari Haat Samiti

A leading supplier for inputs for zari embroidery is Bombay Beads Centre, a sprawling showroom for all types of beads and sequins.

It is said to be Asia’s largest shop of this kind. Amongst its clientele are some of the top names in the Indian fashion industry.

Zari Zardozi: Tools & raw material (2018-04-10)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The majority of the shops that sell embroidery supplies are small speciality stores, like this one.

In the picture is Suhel-ud-din at Saad Handicrafts. He sells different types of beads and metallic wires.

Zari Zardozi: Tools & raw material (2018-04-10)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Reels of metallic thread used for zari work.

Zari Zardozi: Zari work (2018-04-10)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Bundles of golden ribbons called 'gota'. This is used to embellish and emphasise zari embroidery.

Zari Zardozi: Tools & raw material (2018-04-10)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Sequins being weighed out for a customer.

Zari Zardozi: Zari work (2018-04-10)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Kanika, a sales executive at Fancy Lace Collection, a wholesaler and retailer for various kinds of lace and edging.

Her customers are mostly owners of boutiques and workshops that get garments made.

Zari Zardozi: Life in Old Delhi (2018-04-10)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The complete wedding market 

The busy lanes of Old Delhi have specialised areas dedicated to the wedding market. This is a one-stop destination for every thing a traditional north Indian wedding could require – not just zardozi embroidered bridal clothes, but also jewellery and turbans, footwear and decorations. One lane specialises in wedding cards. Another is the go-to place for traditional wedding caterers, complete with impressive lineage and credentials. 

Zari Zardozi: Life in Old Delhi (2018-04-11)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Kinari Bazar, apart from being the place for sourcing supplies for zari embroidery, is also the go-to destination for various kinds of marriage supplies.

Here, a customer looks at wedding stationery and ritual items for an approaching family wedding.

Zari Zardozi: Tools & raw material (2018-04-10)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Accessories made of zari on display. These are attached as tassels and ornaments to festive clothes.

Zari Zardozi: Tools & raw material (2018-04-10)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Even footwear with zardozi embroidery for the groom can be sourced here.

Zari Zardozi: Zari work (2018-04-11)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Inside a zardozi shop

Zari zardozi work can be seen in the traditional shops of the cloth merchants. Customers are ushered to sit on mattresses laid out on the floor, while salesmen bring out the merchandise of their desired price range. Newer stores have also come up, with their trendy mannequins and window displays. Many of these do not allow photography, for fear that their 'original reproductions' of designer wear could get copied!  

Zari Zardozi: Zari work (2018-04-11)Dastkari Haat Samiti

A woman examines a heavily embroidered garment on display. It has been modelled on the wedding dress of a celebrity from Indian cinema.

Zari Zardozi: Shops and showrooms (2018-04-11)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Rajinder Nath Chotey Lal, one of the many show rooms in Chandni Chowk, Old Delhi, is famous for its wedding wear. The store next door specialises in wedding jewellery.

Zari Zardozi: Zari work (2018-04-11)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The typical arrangement in a traditional cloth store. The family in the picture has flown across from Sri Lanka to do their wedding shopping in Old Delhi.

Zari Zardozi: Shops and showrooms (2018-04-11)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Many bridal wear shops are changing to a more modern appearance, although the traditional way of serving the customer is retained.

Zari Zardozi: Shops and showrooms (2018-04-11)Dastkari Haat Samiti

A new-look bridal store. Behind the shining glass windows are mannequins in fashionable cuts, often in colours that depart from the absolutely traditional. Old Delhi’s wedding market has something to suit every taste.

Zari Zardozi: Making of zari embroidery (2018-04-09) by ReshmaDastkari Haat Samiti

Credits: Story

Text: Rashmi Sacher, Charu Verma
Photography: Sunil Kumar, Charu Verma
Artisans: Reshma Rehman Ansari, Shaheen, Saira, Chand, Naseen Bano, Gulafsha, Tabasum, Farahnaaz, Mohammed Arif, Mohammed Asif
Ground Facilitator: Charu Verma, Rashmi Sacher
Documentary Video: Sunil Kumar, Charu Verma
Curation: Ruchira Verma

Credits: All media
The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.
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