Dastkari Haat Samiti
Dastkari Haat Samiti
The jutti is a style of traditional footwear of north India. Originally hand stitched and made completely of leather, it has a simple form, comprising of a closed upper attached to a flat sole. One of its unique features is that there is no distinction between the left and right foot. Differences in climate, materials and usage across regions resulted in the development of a wide range of styles of juttis, which continue to be popular today.
The Patiala Jutti
The so-called Patiala jutti is the style of traditional shoe associated with Patiala, a major centre for this craft in the north Indian state of Punjab. Before the modern Indian nation abolished princely states that held power in various parts of the country, Patiala was the centre of one of the principal princely states of Punjab. The style of jutti favoured by the charismatic royal family was the tilla jutti, decorated with elaborate gold or silver embroidery. This has become the iconic model of the so-called Patiala jutti.
Patiala Jutti (2018-02-21)Dastkari Haat Samiti
'Tille ki jutti', Patiala's signature jutti design of intricate golden thread embroidery. Another town known for its fine workmanship is Fazilka.
Patiala Jutti (2007-01-05) by Ram SwaroopDastkari Haat Samiti
Punjabi jutti with elaborate embroidery in golden thread on insole and upper. Once favoured by the royalty of earlier days, this type of footwear is still made on order for weddings.
Patiala Jutti: Tools (2018-02-22)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Punched and perforated design work on juttis.
Patiala Jutti: Making of Patiala Jutti (2018-02-22)Dastkari Haat Samiti
A craftswoman stitching the border of an embroidered upper part of the jutti.
Patiala Jutti (2018-02-21)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Punjab is known for its colour and vigour. Densely ornamented designs like these ones are also popular. Beads, mirrors and spangles are used as decoration.
Patiala Jutti: Making of Patiala Jutti (2018-02-22)Dastkari Haat Samiti
A jutti maker at work, expertly punching holes in the upper part of the shoe to make a perforated design.
Patiala Jutti (2018-02-22)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Display in a jutti shop in Abohar town, Punjab. Juttis are made in a wide variety of designs.
Patiala Jutti (2007-01-05) by Ram SwaroopDastkari Haat Samiti
Sandals with intricate golden thread embroidery, in the style of the traditional jutti. It is said that the footwear of the royal families of earlier times was decorated with embroidery using actual
gold and silver wires.
Patiala Jutti (2018-02-21)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The typical form of a jutti for men: the front of the shoe is elongated, with a twirl rising at the toe. According to the craftsmen, this resembles a proud and manly moustache.
Patiala Jutti (2018-02-21)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Men’s juttis with all-over metallic thread embroidery. These are popular for weddings.
Patiala Jutti (2018-02-21)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Women’s shoes have a rounded tip, often with a slight depression at the centre of the toe area.
Leather Alternatives
Machine embroidered uppers, and the use of new alternative materials, like artifical leather, velvet or rexine, have bring down the cost of juttis and made them accessible to a larger customer base.
Patiala Jutti (2018-02-21)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Men’s jutti made of textured artificial leather.
Patiala Jutti (2018-02-21)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Velvet juttis at a workshop. Juttis with the twirl at the front resembling a moustache are called 'gabru juttis', gabru being the local term for a young man.
Patiala Jutti (2018-02-21)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The availability of cheaper alternative materials, such as the decorative white rexine used here (locally called Taiwanese sheet) has made the hand crafted jutti affordable for a larger number
of customers.
Patiala Jutti: Women embellish Jutti (2018-02-22)Dastkari Haat Samiti
In rural India, the jutti is still the preferred shoe for many, its wearers swearing by its tough hardiness. In much of urban India, changing lifestyles have transformed it into an article used mostly for ceremonial occasions.
Craft Adaptation
The workmanship of traditional jutti artisans has inspired new explorations by craft designers. Shown in the image is a leather cushion cover with cut work design inspired by the style of Punjabi Jutti.
Patiala Jutti: Innovative Product range (2018-02-26)Dastkari Haat Samiti
A leather lamp base with tilla or golden thread work.
Patiala Jutti: Innovative Product range (2018-02-26)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Lamp base with leather applique and thread work.
Patiala Jutti: Innovative Product range (2018-02-26)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Notebooks and photo frame with embroidery and cutwork inspired by the work of jutti artisans.
Patiala Jutti: Innovative Product range (2018-02-26)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Notebooks and pencil stand inspired by the Patiala jutti.
Patiala Jutti: Women embellish Jutti (2018-02-22)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Read more about Patiala's Jutti making tradition here:
- The Makers of the Famed Patiala Jutti
- The Making of the Patiala Jutti
Text: Rashmi Sacher
Photography: Subinoy Das
Artisans: Sachin Kumar, Sonu Kumar, Satinder Singh, Omkar Dhaliya
Ground Facilitator: Satyender Singh, Rashmi Sacher, Subinoy Das
Curation: Aradhana Nagpal
You are all set!
Your first Culture Weekly will arrive this week.