Dastkari Haat Samiti
Dastkari Haat Samiti
Palm leaf basket weaving
The weaving of palmyra (palm leaf) baskets, Kottan, was a leisure time engagement for the affluent Chettiar women and found pride of place in every Chettiar activity - from ritual and ceremony to daily use. Palm leaf baskets continue to be made in other locations across Tamil Nadu. From low cost packaging to natural Christmas decorations, the craft caters to a range of market requirements.
Chettiar Crafts: Kottan basketsDastkari Haat Samiti
With changing lifestyles within the Chettiar community and the availability of various alternative materials and products, Kottan lost its place, only to be revived in recent years.
Chettiar Crafts: Making a palm leaf basket (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The age-old skill has been taught to local women of various communities as a means of livelihood.
M.Rm.Rm Cultural Foundation and the revival of Kottan baskets
The M.Rm.Rm. Cultural Foundation has revived the craft of Kottan basket-making in its original patterns by teaching it to a group of village women from Keelayapatti Village, in Chettinad. The foundation now also runs centres in Sravayal Pudhur, Nachiapuram, Vairavanpatti, Koratti and Kanadukathan.
Chettiar Crafts: At the Kottan Production Centre (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The number of craftswomen engaged in basketry have increased from ten in the first group to now more than 100 in the six centres.
Chettiar Crafts: Kottan baskets (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
While traditional basket designs have been revived, a whole new range of designs and products has been created afresh.
Chettiar Crafts: Palm leaf basket making (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Kottans are woven from the leaf of the palm tree, locally known as Panamaram.
Chettiar Crafts: Palm leaf used for making baskets (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The leaves are harvested once a year and are stored for production.
Chettiar Crafts: Making a palm leaf basket (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Kottan baskets can be made with just these tools.
Chettiar Crafts: Making a palm leaf basket (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Earlier, women spliced the palm leaf into strips using a knife.
Chettiar Crafts: Making a palm leaf basket (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Nowadays, a splicer is used to cut the palm leaf into strips.
Chettiar Crafts: Making a palm leaf basket (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The spilcer is a simple device with an adjustable blade, that allows palm leaf strips of uniform width to be cut efficiently.
Chettiar Crafts: Making a palm leaf basket (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Once spliced, the strips are ready to be processed further.
Chettiar Crafts: Dyeing the palm leaf (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
A solution of dye is prepared in hot water in a large aluminum vessel.
Chettiar Crafts: Dyeing the palm leaf (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Moist strips of palm leaves are introduced into the dye solution.
Chettiar Crafts: Process of making palm leaf basket (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The artisans have devised a dip-dyeing method to make two-coloured strips.
Chettiar Crafts: Dyeing the palm leaf (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The strips of palm leaf are swirled in the hot dye bath using a stick.
Chettiar Crafts: Dyeing the palm leaf (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
When the strips attain the right shade they are removed from the dye bath and dipped in cool water to fix the colour.
Chettiar Crafts: Dyeing the palm leaf (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The dyed strips of palm leaf are then dried in the shade.
Chettiar Crafts: Making a palm leaf basket (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
A bunch of brightly coloured palm leaf strips ready for weaving.
Chettiar Crafts: Making a palm leaf basket (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Horizontal strips are lined up to make the warp for the base.
Chettiar Crafts: Making a palm leaf basket (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Alternate strips of the warp are lifted to insert the horizontal weft strip.
Chettiar Crafts: Making a palm leaf basket (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The brightly coloured strips create baskets in vivid colours.
Chettiar Crafts: Making a palm leaf basket (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The artisans have devised a dip-dyeing method to make it possible to have two-coloured strips, as shown here.
Chettiar Crafts: Making a palm leaf basket (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Vibrant colours are used to make eye-catching baskets.
Chettiar Crafts: Making a palm leaf basket (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Once the base is ready, the strips are bent and the side walls of the basket are interlaced and woven.
Chettiar Crafts: At the Kottan Production Centre (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Women sitting together, are engaged in different stages of weaving and production.
Chettiar Crafts: Weaving palm leaf baskets (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
A variety of designs can be achieved by intermingling strips dyed in different colours to make a unique bag.
Chettiar Crafts: Making a palm leaf basket (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
A needle and thread is sometimes used to give the edges greater strength.
Chettiar Crafts: Making a palm leaf basket (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The spine of the palm leaf is used for finishing the edges.
Chettiar Crafts: Making a palm leaf basket (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Once the basic weaving is complete, the basket is adorned in different ways.
Chettiar Crafts: Making a palm leaf basket (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The artisans make flowers with strips of palm leaves to decorate the baskets.
Chettiar Crafts: Making a palm leaf basket (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
In the final stages, thin strips are used for decoration in a process similar to embroidery.
Chettiar Crafts: At the Kottan Production Centre (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
An artisan at the M.Rm.Rm. Cultural Foundation strikes a pose with the baskets she has made.
Chettiar Crafts: Kottan baskets (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Traditional skills are built on to make a variety of colourful and attractive designs at the foundation.
Chettiar Crafts: Kottan baskets (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Read more about Chettiar crafts here:
- Chettiar Heritage
- Athangudi Tiles
Text: Aloka Hiremath, Jaya Jaitly
Photography: Chirodeep Chaudhuri
Artisans: Lakshmi Tile House, Ganapathy Tile House and M.Rm.Rm Cultural Foundation
Documentary Video: Chirodeep Chaudhuri
Ground Facilitator: Shalini Shashi
Curation: Ruchira Verma