Kottan Baskets

Learn the age-old Chettiar craft of weaving palm leaves into beautiful baskets

Dastkari Haat Samiti

Dastkari Haat Samiti

Chettiar Crafts: Aachis - the original basket weaversDastkari Haat Samiti

Palm leaf basket weaving

The weaving of palmyra (palm leaf) baskets, Kottan, was a leisure time engagement for the affluent Chettiar women and found pride of place in every Chettiar activity - from ritual and ceremony to daily use. Palm leaf baskets continue to be made in other locations across Tamil Nadu. From low cost packaging to natural Christmas decorations, the craft caters to a range of market requirements.

Chettiar Crafts: Kottan basketsDastkari Haat Samiti

With changing lifestyles within the Chettiar community and the availability of various alternative materials and products, Kottan lost its place, only to be revived in recent years.

Chettiar Crafts: Making a palm leaf basket (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The age-old skill has been taught to local women of various communities as a means of livelihood.

Chettiar Crafts: Kottan baskets (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

M.Rm.Rm Cultural Foundation and the revival of Kottan baskets

The M.Rm.Rm. Cultural Foundation has revived the craft of Kottan basket-making in its original patterns by teaching it to a group of village women from Keelayapatti Village, in Chettinad. The foundation now also runs centres in Sravayal Pudhur, Nachiapuram, Vairavanpatti, Koratti and Kanadukathan. 

Chettiar Crafts: At the Kottan Production Centre (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The number of craftswomen engaged in basketry have increased from ten in the first group to now more than 100 in the six centres.

Chettiar Crafts: Kottan baskets (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

While traditional basket designs have been revived, a whole new range of designs and products has been created afresh.

Chettiar Crafts: At the Kottan Production Centre (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The process of creating Kottan baskets

Chettiar Crafts: Palm leaf basket making (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Kottans are woven from the leaf of the palm tree, locally known as Panamaram.

Chettiar Crafts: Palm leaf used for making baskets (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The leaves are harvested once a year and are stored for production.

Chettiar Crafts: Making a palm leaf basket (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Kottan baskets can be made with just these tools.

Chettiar Crafts: Making a palm leaf basket (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Earlier, women spliced the palm leaf into strips using a knife.

Chettiar Crafts: Making a palm leaf basket (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Nowadays, a splicer is used to cut the palm leaf into strips.

Chettiar Crafts: Making a palm leaf basket (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The spilcer is a simple device with an adjustable blade, that allows palm leaf strips of uniform width to be cut efficiently.

Chettiar Crafts: Making a palm leaf basket (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Once spliced, the strips are ready to be processed further.

Chettiar Crafts: Dyeing the palm leaf (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

A solution of dye is prepared in hot water in a large aluminum vessel.

Chettiar Crafts: Dyeing the palm leaf (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Moist strips of palm leaves are introduced into the dye solution.

Chettiar Crafts: Process of making palm leaf basket (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The artisans have devised a dip-dyeing method to make two-coloured strips.

Chettiar Crafts: Dyeing the palm leaf (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The strips of palm leaf are swirled in the hot dye bath using a stick.

Chettiar Crafts: Dyeing the palm leaf (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

When the strips attain the right shade they are removed from the dye bath and dipped in cool water to fix the colour.

Chettiar Crafts: Dyeing the palm leaf (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The dyed strips of palm leaf are then dried in the shade.

Chettiar Crafts: Making a palm leaf basket (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

A bunch of brightly coloured palm leaf strips ready for weaving.

Chettiar Crafts: Making a palm leaf basket (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Horizontal strips are lined up to make the warp for the base.

Chettiar Crafts: Making a palm leaf basket (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Alternate strips of the warp are lifted to insert the horizontal weft strip.

Chettiar Crafts: Making a palm leaf basket (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The brightly coloured strips create baskets in vivid colours.

Chettiar Crafts: Making a palm leaf basket (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The artisans have devised a dip-dyeing method to make it possible to have two-coloured strips, as shown here.

Chettiar Crafts: Making a palm leaf basket (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Vibrant colours are used to make eye-catching baskets.

Chettiar Crafts: Making a palm leaf basket (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Once the base is ready, the strips are bent and the side walls of the basket are interlaced and woven.

Chettiar Crafts: At the Kottan Production Centre (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Women sitting together, are engaged in different stages of weaving and production.

Chettiar Crafts: Weaving palm leaf baskets (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

A variety of designs can be achieved by intermingling strips dyed in different colours to make a unique bag.

Chettiar Crafts: Making a palm leaf basket (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

A needle and thread is sometimes used to give the edges greater strength.

Chettiar Crafts: Making a palm leaf basket (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The spine of the palm leaf is used for finishing the edges.

Chettiar Crafts: Making a palm leaf basket (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Once the basic weaving is complete, the basket is adorned in different ways.

Chettiar Crafts: Making a palm leaf basket (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

The artisans make flowers with strips of palm leaves to decorate the baskets.

Chettiar Crafts: Making a palm leaf basket (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

In the final stages, thin strips are used for decoration in a process similar to embroidery.

Chettiar Crafts: At the Kottan Production Centre (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

An artisan at the M.Rm.Rm. Cultural Foundation strikes a pose with the baskets she has made.

Chettiar Crafts: Kottan baskets (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Traditional skills are built on to make a variety of colourful and attractive designs at the foundation.

Chettiar Crafts: Kottan baskets (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti

Read more about Chettiar crafts here:
- Chettiar Heritage
- Athangudi Tiles

New Directions
Credits: Story

Text: Aloka Hiremath, Jaya Jaitly
Photography: Chirodeep Chaudhuri
Artisans: Lakshmi Tile House, Ganapathy Tile House and M.Rm.Rm Cultural Foundation
Documentary Video: Chirodeep Chaudhuri
Ground Facilitator: Shalini Shashi
Curation: Ruchira Verma

Credits: All media
The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.
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