How the Cloth for Bagh Printing is Treated
The various processes involved in treating cloth for Bagh printing, in Madhya Pradesh
Dastkari Haat Samiti
Dastkari Haat Samiti
Getting the fabric ready for Bagh printing
Many people are required to unfold and wash meters of cloth. The work is strenuous and needs perfect results at each stage so that the cloth takes the colours during the printing process. Large spaces are needed to locate the multiple haudis (water tanks, like baths), where the cloth is immersed in large vessels and beaten clean of impurities.
Bagh Weaving and Printing: Fabric taken for a wash (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The fabric for printing comes in lengths called bales, which are divided according to the product required. Because of the heavy work required in processing, the fabric is cut to manageable sizes.
A ready sari length is 5.5-6.5 meters, while printed yardage is generally made in 5 meters in length.
Bagh Weaving and Printing: Destarching the fabric (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The fabric is first soaked in water and washed thoroughly to remove starch.
Bagh Weaving and Printing: Destarching the fabric (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The Khatris have trained local youth, whom they employ for the rigorous processes of pre-treatment.
Bagh Weaving and Printing: Destarching the fabric (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The fabric is washed repeatedly and impurities are beaten out of it.
Bagh Weaving and Printing: The use of goat droppings (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Goat droppings for the khara are acquired locally from shepherds.
Bagh Weaving and Printing: The khara process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The work required to treat the fabric requires tedious labour and is done by more than one person for a considerable length of time, since the quality of the cloth is important to retain the colour on it when printed.
Bagh Weaving and Printing: Various washing processes (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Beating the cloth repeatedly is also a laborious process, which requiring energy and effort.
Bagh Weaving and Printing: Washing process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The fabric is trampled by foot to produce froth. This is believed to create heat and soften the fabric.
Bagh Weaving and Printing: Various washing processes (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The Khatris have a series of haudis or tanks, at different levels, where various stages of washing can take place simultaneously.
Bagh Weaving and Printing: Fabrics spread out to dry (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
After that, the fabric is washed again and laid out to dry.
Bagh Weaving and Printing: Treatment of fabric (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Harda is a lightly coloured powder that becomes a solution in water.
Bagh Weaving and Printing: The final step (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Umar Faruk Khatri prepares the harda solution.
Bagh Weaving and Printing: The final step (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
The dried clean fabric is then soaked in harda, as seen in this image.
Bagh Weaving and Printing: Washing process (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Large aluminium vessels are used to soak these sizeable quantities of cloth.
Bagh Weaving and Printing: The final step (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Excess solution is then squeezed out of the fabric.
Bagh Weaving and Printing: Drying the fabric (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Drying the treated cloth
Printed cloth from large machines in large factories is readily available today. In such places, every condition and stage is electronically or mechanically controlled to be able to deliver thousands of meters in a few minutes. If contrasted with the five preliminary processes done by hand, merely to treat the Bagh fabric before it is even printed, which takes another five stages, the immense value of Bagh textiles can be fully understood and appreciated.
The harda-treated fabric is washed again and then spread out to dry in the sun.
Bagh Weaving and Printing: Drying the fabric (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
This pre-treatment of the fabric takes several days, along with the hard labour of several people.
Bagh Weaving and Printing: Bagh printing on natural fibre mats (2017)Dastkari Haat Samiti
Read more about Bagh Printing here:
- Bagh Prints
- Process of Bagh Printing
Text: Aloka Hiremath, Jaya Jaitly
Photography: Suleiman Merchant
Artisans: Ismail Suleiman Khatri, family and co-workers
Ground Facilitator: Charu Verma
Documentary Video: Suleiman Merchant
Curation: Ruchira Verma
