Vogue’s Great Illustrators

Cover art before the age of photography

By Condé Nast Archive

By Laird Borrelli-Persson

Cover: "United We Stand" (1942-07-01/1942-07-01) by Toni FrissellCondé Nast Archive

Vogue. The title evokes glamour and excellence in visual storytelling. It also brings to mind the magazine’s famous covers—from Beyoncé in a glorious flower crown (September 2018) to Rihanna in a red wig (April 2011) and the “supers” stacked on a ladder for the 100th anniversary issue (April 1992).

Black and White Fashion with Handbag (Jean Patchett) (1950) by Irving PennCondé Nast Archive

Prior to this, Richard Avedon famously shot a series of close-up covers in the 1970s and ’80s, and Irving Penn presented openers of supreme elegance, such as Jean Patchett in a veiled hat (April 1, 1950). 

Model Lisa Fonssagrives on a Cover, Vogue (1940-06-01) by Horst P. HorstCondé Nast Archive

Great photographers producing stop-in-your-tracks covers is part of the publication’s legacy; by hiring and developing great talents, Vogue and its publisher, Condé Nast, can be credited with helping fashion photography emerge as a genre.

Model Lisa Fonssagrives on a Cover, Vogue (1940-06-01) by Horst P. HorstCondé Nast Archive

The magazine’s first cover to use a color photograph, for the July 1, 1932, issue, was created by Edward Steichen. It marked the beginning of a sea change away from drawing and toward this advancing technological art. Illustrated covers still appeared throughout the 1950s, but with less frequency.

Cover: Spring Shopping (Lee Miller), Vogue (1927-03-15)Condé Nast Archive

The magazine’s first art director also created cover art, but the heyday of the illustrated covers was the 1910s and 1920s. The Art Deco sensibility seemed to lend itself particularly well to the medium. Among the magazine’s Jazz Age contributors was a group of Frenchmen Nast discovered in Paris—Vogue dubbed them “the Beau Brummels of the Brush.”

Jewels Start a New Gold-Rush, Vogue (1933-07-15)Condé Nast Archive

Foremost among them was Georges Lepape, whose impressive résumé included collaborations with couturier Paul Poiret, the “King of Fashion,” and the Ballets Russes. There is a great dynamism to Lepape’s work: Lovelies might float on clouds or practice calligraphy.

Cover: Summer Fashions, Vogue (1919-06-01)Condé Nast Archive

Lepape was continuing in a tradition that had been established by American artists like Helen Dryden, known for creating covers of elegance (she also designed costumes and cars), and George Wolfe Plank, whose work inhabits a more fantastical realm.

Vogue Cover: Mid-Season Fashions (1929-02-16) by Eduardo Garcia BenitoCondé Nast Archive

Spaniard Eduardo García Benito was one of Nast’s right-hand men and a cover artist. His work represents the Deco style at its most pure and reduced. There’s a distinctive Cubist aspect to his art as well.

Vogue Cover: Beauty Number; Midseason Collections (1935-06-01) by Christian BerardCondé Nast Archive

Romantic to the extreme are the drawings of Christian “Bébé” Bérard, a darling of the fashion and theater set in Paris. He sketched for Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli, and worked on sets for Jean Cocteau’s surrealist film La belle et la bête (1946). Though expressionistic, his fluid lines capture the essence of a style.

Sketch of Woman with a Black Glove, Vogue (1930-11-10) by Carl Oscar August EricksonCondé Nast Archive

Carl Erickson, known as Eric, is among the last of the magazine’s great illustrators. A Midwesterner based in Paris, he had a quick line that produced informative, elegant drawings. A dapper fellow who had access to the hot spots of Paris and to designers’ ateliers, Erickson gives the viewer a glimpse behind closed doors and a peek at fashion in the making.

Cover: Spring Fashions and Original Vogue Designs, Vogue (1921-02-01)Condé Nast Archive

Helen Dryden

Cover: Winter Fashions Number, Vogue, Helen Dryden, 1913-11-01, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Vogue Cover: Brides and Summer Homes, Helen Dryden, 1917-05-01, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Cover: Summer Fashions, Vogue, 1916-06-01, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Cover: Motor and Southern Number, Vogue, 1922-01-15, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Vogue Cover: Brides and Summer Homes, Helen Dryden, 1916-05-01, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Clair de Lune, Vogue, 1921-07-01, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Cover: Special Features for the Hostess, Vogue (1914-07-15)Condé Nast Archive

George Wolfe Plank

Vogue Cover: Vanity Number, George Wolfe Plank, 1917-11-15, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Vogue Cover: Paris Openings Number, George Wolfe Plank, 1918-04-01, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Vogue Cover: Spring Fabrics and Original Vogue Designs, George Wolfe Plank, 1923-02-01, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Vogue Cover: Autumn Fashion Forecast and Millinery (1920-09-15)Condé Nast Archive

George Lepape

Cover: Spring Shopping (Lee Miller), Vogue, 1927-03-15, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Jewels Start a New Gold-Rush, Vogue, 1933-07-15, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Cover: New York Fashions, Vogue, 1922-05-01, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Cover: Paris Openings, Vogue, 1928-04-01, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Vogue Cover: Autumn Fashion Forecast and Millinery, 1926-09-15, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Vogue Cover: Spring Fashions Number, Georges Lepape, 1917-03-15, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Cover: Summer Fashions, Vogue, 1918-06-01, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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With an Eye to Embellishment, Vogue, 1934-02-15, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Vogue Cover: Paris Fashions (1928-10-13) by Eduardo Garcia BenitoCondé Nast Archive

Benito

Vogue Cover: New York Winter Fashions, Eduardo Garcia Benito, 1929-10-26, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Vogue Cover: Mid-Season Fashions: Bridal Features, Eduardo Garcia Benito, 1930-02-15, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Vogue Cover: Southern Fashions and Winter Sports, Eduardo Garcia Benito, 1930-01-04, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Vogue Cover: Vanity Number, Eduardo Garcia Benito, 1926-11-15, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Vogue Cover: Summer Hostess Number, Eduardo Garcia Benito, 1931-07-01, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Vogue Cover: Mid-Season Fashions, Eduardo Garcia Benito, 1929-02-16, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Vogue Cover: Autumn Fabrics and Original Vogue Designs, Eduardo Garcia Benito, 1926-09-01, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Vogue Cover: Beauty Number; Midseason Collections (1935-06-01) by Christian BerardCondé Nast Archive

Christian “Bébé” Bérard

Vogue Cover: Paris Openings; Spring Shopping, Christian Berard, 1938-03-01, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Vogue Cover: Paris Openings II, Christian Berard, 1939-09-15, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Vogue Cover: Brides; New York Fashions, Christian Berard, 1937-10-01, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Vogue Cover: Spring Forecast; Shoes, Christian Berard, 1936-02-01, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Vogue Cover: Paris Openings I; Autumn Shopping, Christian Berard, 1937-09-01, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Opera Scene From the Théâtre de la Mode, Vogue, Horst P. Horst, 1946-06-01, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Sketch of Man and Woman in Eveningwear, Vogue (1931-11-01) by Carl Oscar August EricksonCondé Nast Archive

Eric

Sketch of Princess Bibesco Getting Fitted for a Dress, Vogue, Carl Oscar August Erickson, 1930-11-24, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Sketch of Woman on a Balcony Near a Beach, Vogue, Carl Oscar August Erickson, 1932-01-01, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Sketch of Vionnet Dress, Vogue, Carl Oscar August Erickson, 1932-05-01, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Sketch of Lilia Ralli and Sita Devi, Vogue, Carl Oscar August Erickson, 1939-02-15, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Sketch of Short Evening Dresses, Vogue, Carl Oscar August Erickson, 1942-09-01, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Sketch of Model in Jaeckel, Vogue, Carl Oscar August Erickson, 1949-10-15, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Sketch of Model in Schiaparelli, Vogue, Carl Oscar August Erickson, 1950-09-15, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Sketch of Queen Elizabeth II at Fashion Show, British Vogue, Carl Oscar August Erickson, 1952-12-01, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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Sketch of Balmain, French Vogue, Carl Oscar August Erickson, 1955-10-01, From the collection of: Condé Nast Archive
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