Slow Fashion Culture

Traditional costumes of Franconian Switzerland

Wo kommen die Trachten her?, Grafikatelier Engelke & Neubauer, Nürnberg, 2021, Original Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim
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Map of costume locations in the Forchheim region.

Historische FesttagstrachtOriginal Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim

The costume "discontinued"?

Unique, crafted, crossover, sustainable, sensual—these are modern terms that you don't immediately associate with traditional costume. For many generations, traditional costume was a form of dress reserved for the rural population. In fact, it was so reserved that by the end of the 1980s it was on the verge of extinction—of being "discontinued."

Krönung der Forchheimer Bierkönigin, Original Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim
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Forchheimer Bierköniginnen auf dem Annafest in Forchheim, Original Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim
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Costume reloaded At folk festivals, you can find young women and men in dirndls and lederhosen once again today. The textile commitment to the Bavarian homeland is followed by the occupation with the Upper Franconian costume. One reflects on its own origins, the Upper Franconian forebears. Traditional costume tailors work with traditional clothing and create something new from the old. And costumes are once again being made for many occasions.

Erneuerte FesttagstrachtOriginal Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim

The Costume Museum in Forchheim

The Costume Museum in Forchheim explores the history of the region's traditional costumes, tells the story of these costumes, the various occasions at which they were worn and the people who wore them, and links this to contemporary costume culture.

Historische Festtagstracht aus HausenOriginal Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim

Tradition—where am I from, where do I belong?

Clothing always tells a story. It tells who you are or want to be, where you come from or where you belong. And this is especially true for costumes. Costume wearers partake in a tradition which often stretches across generations and shows their identity.

Fürst Pückler im preußischen Waffenrock (1826)Original Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim

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Prince Pückler in a Prussian tunic

*Prince Pückler in a Prussian tunic", Friedrich Jentzen, lithography by Franz Krüger, 1826, publication and printing: L. Sachse & Co. Berlin, SFPM*

Historische Festtagstracht aus Hausen, Original Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim
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Historische Festtagstracht aus Hausen, Rückansicht, Original Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim
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Hochzeitspaar in historischer Festtagstracht, Original Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim
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Village costumes testified to the origin (village), status (unmarried or married) or wealth of the wearer. Urban fashion influences were certainly adopted, provided they pleased and proved practical. Women's historical festive costumes were particularly bold and bright. It consisted of many individual parts: several skirts on top of each other, shirt, body, "Schubben" (jacket), apron, several scarves around the neck and head.

Hörnertuch (um 1910)Original Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim

Costume wearer with horn scarf

Married women wore the white horn scarf artfully tied to the top of their heads. Its quality and design indicated the wearer's social rank and wealth. The tying method left the ends of the kerchief looking like two horns.

Rock mit Stehplissee der historischen FesttagstrachtOriginal Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim

Skirt with pleats for the historical festive costume

The historical festive costume included the ribbon skirt consisting of standing pleats in various deep bright colors. It consisted of six to eight meters of fabric, and the bottom hem was usually adorned with a wide, green moiré ribbon that peeked out from under the apron.

Rock mit Stehplissee, Original Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim
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Rock mit Stehplissee, Original Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim
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The carefully and elaborately arranged pleats on the waistband emphasized the back view, while the fabric was smooth in the front, because the apron had to sit here.

Brustfleck, vorne, Original Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim
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Brustfleck, Rückansicht, Original Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim
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Brustfleck, Detail, Original Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim
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The so-called breast patch acted as a bodice. Pleated silk ribbons bordered it at the neckline. The dividing seams were reinforced and richly embroidered. Ribbons or buttons closed the breast patches at the front of the chest. Skirts were pulled over the pads on the side and ensured a wider hip silhouette, in line with the beauty standards of the time.

Bräutigam aus Hausen, Original Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim
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Männerweste, um 1860 - 1950, Original Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim
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Männerweste, um 1860 - 1950, Original Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim
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The men also dressed in traditional costume, consisting of knee breeches, white stockings, shirt, vest, frock coat and wide tricorn hat. The rather dark male costume had a colorful bright spot; the elaborately decorated vest, usually in bright red, peeked out from under the openly worn frock coat.

Hochzeitsfoto aus Poxdorf (um 1921)Original Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim

Wedding photo from Poxdorf, Upper Franconia

While men stopped wearing costumes at the end of the 19th century and started to wear urban clothing, women kept the tradition of everyday costume wearing going until well into the second half of the 20th century. They even wore them to their own weddings…

Tracht aus Kirchehrenbach, um 1910, Original Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim
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Spitzhaube aus Wannbach, um 1910, Original Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim
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…They wore them on feast days with the horned scarf or the banded hood, which actually came to Franconian Switzerland from the Nuremberg countryside.

Trachtenträgerin in Ebermannstadt, Original Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim
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Tracht aus Kersbach, um 1950, Original Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim
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In the early 20th century, there were significant changes in Franconian Switzerland's dress culture. The new costume was less elaborate, the many silk scarves were no longer included, the wide-cut jackets were replaced with high-collared "smocks" and the skirts were no longer pleated, but gathered in folds at the buttocks. On Sundays, women also wore an embroidered headscarf tied at the neck.

Tracht aus Poxdorf, unbekannt, um 1950, Original Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim
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Tracht aus Kirchehrenbach, um 1900, Original Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim
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Arbeitstracht bei der Feldarbeit, Original Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim
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They also wore costumes when doing housework, work on the farm and in the field. The mostly blue-ground cotton fabrics met other criteria for this: they had to be washable, hard-wearing and robust.

Fronleichnamsprozession Effeltrich, Original Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim
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Fronleichnamsprozession Effeltrich, Original Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim
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Fronleichnamsprozession Effeltrich, Original Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim
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Fronleichnamsprozession Effeltrich, Original Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim
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After the Second World War, wearing traditional costumes was increasingly considered outdated. In many places, women, often under pressure from their families, discarded their traditional costumes. Since then, in some villages, people have been rediscovering the tradition and wear historical festive costume on festive days and in processions. The old tradition lives once again and also makes a delightful sight for visitors.

Credits: Story

Forchheim Pfalz Museum, https://kaiserpfalz.forchheim.de/

Credits: All media
The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.
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