Unique—the influence of fashion and personal preference

Traditional costumes of Franconian Switzerland

Individuelle TrachtOriginal Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim

Does a costume that has been handed down through the generations have the scope to accommodate personal preferences, or even contemporary fashion influences?

Gestaltkittel, Original Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim
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Gestaltkittel, um 1890 - 1920, Original Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim
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Hochgeschlossene Mode um 1900, Atelier C. Strauss, Cassel, um 1900, Original Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim
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Hochgeschlossene Mode um 1900, Robert Krenvaldt Bonn, um 1900, Original Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim
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It may be that the costume cuts were more or less fixed, but elements of the fashions of the time, albeit with slight alterations and a slight time lag, found their way onto costumes all the same. The so-called "shaped gown" (Gestaltkittel) is modeled on late 19th century urban fashion and adopted the high collar. Because the Gestaltkittel had lots of buttons to close and was cumbersome to put on as a result, it only lasted 20 years as a costume.

TWIGGY UK Modell Angeberei ein Minirock Kleid der 1960er Jahre, 1960er Jahre, Original Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim
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Werktagstracht, 1960er Jahre, Original Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim
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As miniskirts conquered the world in the 1960s, the hem of costume skirts went up a notch. But slender women like Twiggy were seen as being too physically weak for hard agricultural work. Therefore, despite the shorter skirt length, the wide silhouette with several overlaying skirts remained.

Kittel, Detail, Original Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim
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Schürze, Detail, Original Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim
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Bunte Werktagstracht, Detail, 1960er Jahre, Original Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim
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Bunte Werktagstracht, 1960er Jahre, Original Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim
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Do costumes always have to have small flowers on? A whole host of costume garments with wild patterns contradict this stereotype. People were free to choose, and chose what was available and what they liked. This included synthetic material as well as graphic patterns.

Neue Tracht des Fränkische Schweiz Vereins, Original Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim
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Neue Tracht des Fränkische Schweiz Vereins, Rückansicht, Original Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim
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Wide hips not only promised strength for peasant work, but also fertility. Several petticoats helped a little with the desired look. Today's beauty standards dictate that waists should be slim, meaning that petticoats have gradually become a thing of the past. In costume night courses, wearable models are produced that are suitable for all occasions, such as the costume of the Franconian Switzerland Society.

LeibchenOriginal Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim

Tailor-made, individual bodice

From the early 20th century, the longer breast patches developed from the original form of the short breast patches (bodice) . While the cuts are more or less fixed, when it comes to fabrics and embroidery, creators have free reign.

Trachtenkreation, Original Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim
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Trachtenkreation, Sandra Janine Müller, Trachtenpunk, Original Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim
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Trachtenkreation, Sandra Janine Müller, Trachtenpunk, Original Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim
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Today, innovative costume makers are breathing new life into Franconian costume. The bodice, skirt and apron still have the traditional shapes, but the restrictions on fabrics, embroidery and accessories no longer apply. The whole piece is often combined with modern elements. Costume wearers wear what they like and what expresses their personality.

Erneuerte FesttagstrachtOriginal Source: Pfalzmuseum Forchheim

The Costume Museum in Forchheim

The Costume Museum in Forchheim explores the history of the region's traditional costumes, tells the story of these costumes, the various occasions at which they were worn and the people who wore them, and links this to contemporary costume culture.

Credits: Story

Forchheim Pfalz Museum, https://kaiserpfalz.forchheim.de/

Credits: All media
The story featured may in some cases have been created by an independent third party and may not always represent the views of the institutions, listed below, who have supplied the content.
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