Weaving Telia Rumal

The starched warp is tied under tension to the two poles attached to the floor of the house.

The parts which require to be dyed are exposed, while the other parts are tied in with rubber threads.

Rubber ties, such as these, are then tightly bound around areas that are to be reserved from dyeing.

The warp is dyed in the specific desired colour and left to dry.

Once dry, the dyed part is tied with rubber strips to prevent the next colour to be absorbed. The (non-dyed) white portion on the warp is now dyed with the second colour.

The dyed warp is then treated in acetic acid and starch solution.

This treatment helps fix the colours and give the yarn the stiffness it requires.

The warp is then taken outside and tied under tension for it to dry.

This is a crucial step to ensure the design remains intact.

The warp design is checked before it is put on the loom.

For a double ikat fabric like Telia Rumal, the weft also has to be tied and dyed. But this does not happen until the warp is on the loom and the plain heading is woven to ensure that accurate measurements can be taken for the placement of design.

The weft is wound out on a semi-circular frame with a central peg and many nails on the rim. Sufficient repeats of the design are wound to enable the entire warp to be woven.

After washing and drying, the weft is wound out on cylinders and then onto bobbins for the weaving shuttles.

Fly shuttle pit looms called Maggam, made of teak wood, are used for weaving.

The loom is an important part of the home. Various weaving and support activities are carried out by different members of the family.

The resist dyed ikat warp is unwrapped as the weaving progresses on the loom.

The number of motifs makes it more complex and difficult to weave, like this resist dyed yarn in the Narikunji design.

The weavers also have to join the ends of the new warp to those of the previous ones on the loom.

Detail of the ends of a new warp being joined to those of the existing warp on the loom.

Each of the warp and weft threads are individually positioned on the loom prior to weaving, hence, it is crucial for the weaver to ensure precision.

For a fabric with the width of a sari, this process can take about four hours.

Once the weaving process is complete, the finished pieces are starched, ironed and sent for sale.

Weaving a Telia Rumal needs great amount of practice and perfection, for the warp and weft to be meticulously converted to an artistic design.

Read more about the art of Telia Rumal here:

- Telia Rumal
- Weaving Ikat