“Robe Cyclone” Evening Gown

In 1918 Jeanne Lanvin (1867-1946) began designing Stilkleider (“style dresses”) with a romantic character that radically differed from the factual, strict line of the 20s. This full-length ball gown, with wide, two-tiered skirt, is another iteration of this. The narrow bodice with extended waist has wide shoulder straps and deep, square front and back necklines. The bust is rendered with splendid rhinestone and faux pearl embroidery, with black flowerstones and additional relief decoration of ornamental buttons with rhinestones. Slight transverse ruffles are incorporated in the seams of the bodice. Both valances have open side seams. The Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum in New York owns a variation of the model seen here, the skirt is identical but the bodice displays an alternate design (Inv. no. C.I.46.4.18 a,b).