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“Artemise” Dress for a Short Evening Ensemble

Yves Saint LaurentFall/winter 1959

Kunstgewerbemuseum, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin

Kunstgewerbemuseum, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin
Berlin, Germany

In a 1959 issue of the New York Herald Tribune American fashion journalist Eugenia Sheppard simply summed up the 1960 fall/winter line by Dior thus: “Hobble skirts are revived by Dior”. To do so Saint Laurent combined a simple corsage bodice with a sculptural, tulip-shaped skirt, as seen in this model. Three rounded downward tapering semi-circles were arranged one upon the other on the skirt front to form a gently rounded calyx over a rigid multi-tiered petticoat. This solid form is softened by the delicate lace edge that flashes from beneath the hemline. A decorative bow adorns the front centre at the waist. The dress closes in the back with a hook and eye closure at the corsage and waist and a long zipper. This short evening gown was worn with a cape and presented by the model known as Victoire.

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  • Title: “Artemise” Dress for a Short Evening Ensemble
  • Creator: Yves Saint Laurent for Christian Dior
  • Creator Lifespan: 1.8.1936 - 1.6.2008
  • Creator Nationality: French
  • Creator Gender: Male
  • Date: Fall/winter 1959
  • Rights: Photo © bpk - Photo Agency / Kunstgewerbemuseum, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin - Preußischer Kulturbesitz / Stephan Klonk │ Text © Staatliche Museen zu Berlin - Preußischer Kulturbesitz / Christine Waidenschlager
  • Provenance: 2003 Kamer/Ruf collection; 1993 Christie’s, London, estate of Olivia de Havilland, Kunstgewerbemuseum, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin - Preußischer Kulturbesitz
  • Proof of manufacture: Woven black on white label in left side seam: Christian Dior, Hiver 1959, Paris, 802932
  • Place of origin: Paris, France
  • Length: Fl./bl. 94 cm
  • ISIL no.: DE-MUS-018417
  • Type: Dress
  • External Link: http://www.smb.museum/museen-und-einrichtungen/kunstgewerbemuseum/home.html
  • Medium: Anthracite coloured silk faille, black machine lace Lining: black silk taffeta, black silk tulle, black silk velvet
Kunstgewerbemuseum, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin

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