A mannequin-doll Grand Pandora

France (?), 1780-1790s
Silver brocade, velvet, silk, lace, gold thread, cannetille, sequins, paillettes, gold fringe; embroidery, appliqué
No GDM-102-II

Starting from the Middle Ages information about fashion was distributed around Europe with the help of doll-sized mannequins — Grand Pandora and Petit Pandora. Grand Pandora was used to demonstrate court attire and Petit Pandora — every day wear.
The doll from the Gatchina Palace collection demonstrates the style of the gown for the Order of Saint Catherine of the first class (Grand Cross). The Order was instituted by Emperor Peter I in 1714. Later Emperor Paul I introduced the Statute on Imperial Orders of Russia as of April 5, 1797, with strict rules for order dresses. Ladies were supposed to wear special robes on the feast day of Saint Catherine (December 24).
According to a legend, the style of the gown for the Order of Saint Catherine was created by a royal dressmaker of Marie Antoinette, Queen of France.