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Evening Gown Back Detail

FIDM MUSEUM & GALLERIES

FIDM MUSEUM & GALLERIES
Los Angeles, United States

Gown: Empire-waisted evening gown of sheer white linen muslin with cotton white-work embroidery; bodice, skirt, and sleeves embroidered with one-half inch circles of French knots allover; low, drawstring neckline with sheer gathered panel at upper bodice; linen under-bodice bust support constructed of two doubled panels overlapping at center front [pinned together when worn]; neckline at shoulder and back trimmed in white cotton twisted braid; bodice front and under-bodice seamed together only at top of shoulders; horizontal, peaked seam at middle of bodice, trimmed with braid; panel at waist with vertical seam at center front and horizontal waist seam; medium-weight linen lining stitched to lower bodice panel; short, set-in sleeves with armscye deeply curved towards center back at back; hem embroidered with two bands and flowers in between; medium-weight linen lining at sleeve attached to under-bodice; straight, columnar skirt with long train; center front of skirt embroidered with French knots and satin-stitch diamond motif; hem of skirt and train edged in triangle (half-diamond) motif and solidly embroidered French knot circles; back constructed of two strips along neckline, central gathered panel, deeply inset sleeves, and two side panels; slight V-neckline; two embroidered, covered buttons at center back bottom of angular gathered panel; bodice hemmed at waistline with train extending from center back in tight gathers; front bodice panel extends into skirt at sides with two portions meeting at center back; braid extensions tied at center back below train; skirt connects to train ten inches below waist with slit openings at sides; linen ties extend from center back bodice to tie below bust support at center front; skirt unlined.
Label: none
Date: c. 1803

Diadem: Small tiara of cut steel faceted stones; headband of metal; front set with cut steel stones in shape of vine with three flowers interspersed with leaves; center of each stone features larger round faceted stone; center of each leaf features oblong marquise-cut stone; double band of steel cut stones form scalloped border at bottom; smooth metal band at back soldered to proper right side of tiara and hooks at proper left side.
Label: none
Date: 1790-1810

Pendant: Hairwork pendant with weeping willow and urn motif; large oval pendant with rose gold frame and loop at center top; glass covered compartment at front has a painted weeping willow tree, urn with base and seed pearls; painted chopped brown hair as the ground below the urn with base; seed pearls and gold thread decorate the glass urn and base; "I\WEEP\HEAVEN\REJOI-\CES" at base of urn, backed with chopped brown hair; ground of front compartment of frosted glass that reveals pressed gold of sunbeam motif; glass compartment at opposite side contains brown woven hair with "JB" cut-out in gold at center; "Died 3 Decr 1793 Aged 32" engraved at top of rose gold frame.
Label: none
Date: 1793

Shawl: Elongated, rectangular shawl of fine white cotton muslin; embroidered in white-work and cutwork with cotton embroidery floss; ends feature paisley motif incorporating flowers, branches, and checkered cutwork; all edges embroidered with band of cutwork netting and branch motif; central field embroidered with dots and sprigs.
Label: none
Date: 1800-1810

Mitts: Pair of chrome yellow silk crocheted lace mitts; fingerless gloves constructed of two pieces, sleeve and thumb; seam along length of arm; band of dense crochet at finger opening and thumb opening; dotted net lace at hand; simple net bands at wrist; larger-scale dotted net along sleeve with geometric motifs at opening; unlined.
Label: none
Date: 1800-1820

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  • Title: Evening Gown Back Detail
  • Date Created: 1800/1805
  • Location Created: Gown and Shawl: Europe Diadem and Pendant: Probably Great Britain Mitts: Great Britain
  • Physical Dimensions: Gown CB: 90″ Diadem H: 1 3/8" Pendant L: 3 ¼″ Shawl L: 111″ Mitts L: 18 ¾″
  • Provenance: Gown, Shawl and Mitts: Museum Purchase Diadem: Gift of Lenore Dailey Pendant: Gift of Andrea Tice in Memory of Carmelita Johnson
  • Type: Gown,Diadem, Pendant, Shawl, Mitts
  • Photographer: Brian Sanderson
  • Rights: © FIDM Museum & Library, Inc. Image made available for limited non-commercial, educational, and personal use only, or for fair use as defined in the United States copyright laws. Users must cite the author and source of the image as they would material from any printed work, and the citations should include the URL “www.fidmmuseum.org”. For publication or press requests, visit http://www.fidmmuseum.org/about/rights-and-reproductions/ or email imagerights@FIDMmuseum.org.
  • Medium: Gown: Cotton mull and cotton embroidery floss Diadem: Steel Pendant: Gold, mother-of-pearl, pearls, human hair and glass Shawl: Cotton muslin and cotton embroidery floss Mitts: Silk knit
  • Object ID: Gown: 2009.5.6 Diadem: 2010.1008.1 Pendant: 2008.46.274 Shawl: 2009.5.77 Mitts: 2009.5.56AB
  • Bibliographic References: Kevin L. Jones and Christina M Johnson. FABULOUS! Ten Years of FIDM Museum Acquisitions, 2000-2010. Los Angeles: FIDM Museum Publications, 2010.
FIDM MUSEUM & GALLERIES

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