Ball Gown

After the 1895 death of Charles Frederick Worth his sons Gaston and Jean-Philippe took over the fashion house. Jean-Philippe (1856-1926), the perfectionist, was responsible for design, and his creations were distinguished by their subtle colours and material compositions. An exquisite colour combination and elegant cut with asymmetrically arranged ornament distinguish this two-piece evening gown designed by Jean-Philippe Worth. The waist-length, slightly rigid, bodice and the multi-panel bell shaped skirt are made both cut black sequin-embroidered tulle over cream-coloured silk satin. Wide turquoise satin ribbons, tied into knots and bows, form the colour counterpoint. There is a lavishly ascending decor of tulle blossoms and leaves appliqués on the left. These are embroidered with silver-lined and black faceted glass beads and glass stones. The bodice displays a broad shoulder-wide neckline and multi-layered, tiered and gathered short cap sleeves of cream and black tulle. These reference the mutton sleeve that had come back into fashion around 1895. The dress comes from the estate of Mary Goelet, who married the 8th Duke of Roxburghe in 1903. At that time she was regarded as the wealthiest American heiress.