Ball Gown with Silver-Grey Embroidery

This two-piece ball gown embodies the luxury of the Fin de Siècle. It combines a short richly embroidered bodice with an overwide bell jar skirt that merges into a train. The top has a shoulder-wide angular neckline framed by lace trim over silk voile. The short sleeves are of multi-layer silk voile topped in a lace border. Below the trim, a V-shaped lace insert over pink voile emphasizes the fitted bodice. This is richly embroidered with garlands made of large grey artificial pearl that end in a tear-shaped trim of grey and white pearls. The multi-panel skirt falls smoothly over the hip. It is embroidered with large double and triple rows of pearl held by curved leaf twigs of feathered and lanceolate leaves. The elegant lines and the slightly S-shaped silhouette of the gown take up the curved forms popularized by Art Nouveau. This gown is an early model by Jeanne Paquin (1869-1936), who often combined pastel tones with contrasting lace.