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Printed cotton fabrics with a dark background were called ramoneur (chimney sweep), and were popular because one did not easily show dirt. This one-piece gown shows the shorter waist of 1790 and the fashionable, elongated sleeves. The deep neckline of the gown could be adjusted with a drawstring, and the front edges of the top portion meet seamlessly. The skirt has a slight train with thickfolds in the back, the ruffled expanse of the front part of the dress is held by a band that terminates in long binding tapes. The front hem of the skirt is drawn toward the rear like an apron. The bodice and sleeves are lined in natural coloured linen. The floral Indian style pattern depicts white vines ascending in opposite directions with fantastic multi-coloured flowers against a violet-brown background.

Details

  • Title: Printed Women's Gown
  • Creator: Unknown
  • Date: ca. 1790
  • Stylistic point of origin: France/England
  • Rights: Photo © bpk - Photo Agency / Kunstgewerbemuseum, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin - Preußischer Kulturbesitz / Stephan Klonk │ Text © Staatliche Museen zu Berlin - Preußischer Kulturbesitz / Christine Waidenschlager
  • Provenance: 2003 Kamer/Ruf collection; 1985 Christie’s, London, Kunstgewerbemuseum, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin - Preußischer Kulturbesitz
  • Length: Fl. 133 cm, bl. 145 cm
  • ISIL no.: DE-MUS-018417
  • Type: Dress
  • External Link: http://www.smb.museum/museen-und-einrichtungen/kunstgewerbemuseum/home.html
  • Medium: Plain weave cotton, printed calico, partially painted; lining: natural coloured linen

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