'Cains' Silhouette © Stany Dederen

At the end of the 19th century, in the decadent fin-de-siècle, both the literary and the art world formulated reactions against the strict Victorian instructions for men’s clothing: dandies such as Oscar Wilde wore clothes that were more extravagant than the fashion ideal, and caught the eye with their relatively feminine attention to style and luxurious garments. Since the 2000s, we have seen more experiments with materials, colours, and techniques, creating a colourful, slim male silhouette that the ‘New Dandy’ label applies to. Dries Van Noten’s Autumn/Winter collection provides a symbolical meeting between musician Frank Zappa and dandy Oscar Wilde. The collection’s theme of "Psychedelic elegance" was translated in the motifs by Dutch artist Gijs Frieling, as well as in the reinterpretation of Wilde's words by calligraphy artist Letman. During the show, Frieling and Letman’s collaborative creation was transformed into a mural, painted by a team of artists. Their prints also appeared on the garments, illustrated in this vibrantly decorated dark suit.