Chanel dookie chain, metal, fall 1991, France, gift of Depuis 1924

This bold necklace was a key accessory in Karl Lagerfeld’s 1991 “hip hop” collection for Chanel. Lagerfeld was inspired by artists such as Run-DMC and Salt-N-Pepa. These artists wore the gold “dookie” chain as a symbol of power – ostentatious luxury and success in the face of Reagan-era racial conservatism. However, here it has become a branding device for high fashion. Since its debut, the Chanel hip hop collection has become controversial for its appropriation of black culture.