Cloak

The dolman has a straight cut shoulder, tighter in waist and widening at the hip. The sleeve is curving. The collar is low on the front. It has a higher upright collar on the back. It is closed at the front with a ribbed button made of metal thread and with a hook. The slashing of the sleeve is closed with six pairs of smaller, but similar links. In the side — from the waist to the elbow — is an inset of a ground net pillow lace made with metal thread. The textile is brownish silk cloth lanciered with silver thread, dominated by a pattern brocaded with a twist of two gilt metal threads: on alternately bending stem in each line, with a carnation, small tulips and S-shaped leaves. The linning is red taffeta; the sleeves are lined with red satin to the wrist. The cloak has a high upright collar, a straight cut shoulder widening from the arm-hole. The middle of the back is cut, widening, with a slashing and is closed with eleven ribbed buttons made of metal thread and hook. It has a loose sleeve, narrowed down at the wrist; the slashing is closed with eleven buttons made of silver thread. The trimming of gilt and silver thread frames it stresses the cut. The textile of the cloak is similar to that of the dolman and the pattern is also similar. A row of carnations and alternately bending palmettes are varied in it. A textile with a similar pattern was made of damask, satin and cisele velvet; the analogies can be found in several European collections, such as the Musees Royaux des Arts Decoratifs in Brussels, or in the Kunstgewerbemuseum of Cologne. The description in the 1725 inventory of the Fraknó treasury is: "When the emperor Leopold was crowned King of Hungary, the cloak and the dolman lined with yellow taffeta and decorated with flowers were made at that time". (Inventarium Thesauri Fraknensis Anno 1725. Almarium Sub Nris 79 et 80. Nro. 21. — Inventory of the Museum of Applied Arts 236/1957).