Court dress and train

This dress, a gown of ivory and black silk by Reville, was worn by Annie, Lady Holcroft (1868-1929) for her presentation at court at Buckingham Palace on 9 May 1928.

Presentation at court was an important rite of passage for society women, who could only be presented by a woman who had herself been presented previously. Lady Holcroft was presented by Lady Henn and then she presented her own daughter, Miss Phyllis Holcroft. Annie, Lady Holcroft was about 60 at the time, showing that while we might think of court presentations as being the preserve of young women, this was not the case. She died the year after.

As was customary at the time, The Times newspaper in its 'Court Circular' column the next day described their dresses along with those of others being presented. This dress was described as : 'a gown of ivory and black mousseline de soie, entirely embroidered with white crystals, cut jet and massed paillettes, the bodice worked with diamante embroidery in relief. A train of jet black velours de soie with black and white embroideries (Reville, Hanover-square)'. Her daughter's dress was also described: 'Miss P. E. Holcroft - A picture gown of lime-green and silver lace, mounted on lime-green and silver tissue, appliqued with flower petals and leaves. A train of lime-green and silver lace, trimmed with bands of green tissue and edged with flower petals and leaves. (Isobel, 223, Regent-street)'. (The Times, 10 May 1928).

It was also customary to sit for a studio portrait photograph in your full outfit, and several beautiful photographs of Annie, Lady Holcroft, by Lafayette survive, now in the collection of the National Portrait Gallery.

A favourite of Queen Mary, Reville Ltd were one of London's most prominent court dress makers. The company submitted approved designs to the Lord Chamberlain's office to illustrate the court dress guidelines enforced by the office and published in newspapers. This dress, with its accompanying Prince of Wales plume of three feathers and veil, court train attached at the shoulders, and feather fan conformed to the rules for women attending court set out in Dress Worn at Court, published by the Lord Chamberlain's office.