Dawn

This design was created by Léon Sault, possibly for Charles Frederick Worth. Representing Dawn, it is designed with the skirt in darkness, representing night, showing moths flying through the darkness and the moon setting behind the horizon, and a large golden sun on the bodice, its beams radiating down through the clouds to begin illuminating the darkness of the skirt. The model wears a wreath of poppies and wild flowers on her head. This is a very elaborate costume, with puffs of gauze or tulle used to create the clouds and a feathery border to the hem to suggest grass. Leon Sault was a fashion and theatre designer and illustrator who later became a magazine editor, publishing some of his fancy dress costume designs as part of a series titled "L'Art du Travestissment" (The Art of Fancy Dress). His designs included characters such as Mephistopheles and embodiments of concepts such as Astronomy.

During the 1860s, Empress Eugenie of France threw a number of extravagant masquerade balls which required the guests to wear elaborate and inventive costumes that were made up by Worth and other Paris dressmakers. Worth, a relative newcomer, became the Empress's favoured couturier at the end of the 1850s. This made him extremely fashionable, and the rest of the ladies of Eugenie's court also bought gowns from him - and so too did their husbands' mistresses, and anyone wealthy enough to afford Worth's very high prices. As a result, Worth was under great pressure to produce vast numbers of unique, one of a kind costumes and gowns, often at very short notice. This is one of a large number of similar designs and sketches that were given to the V&A as part of the archive and reference collection of the House of Worth, making it extremely likely that it was originally designed for a guest to wear to one of the Empress's magnificent balls.