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This one-piece dress impresses with its warm colours. A small chequered pattern and elongated boteh (paisley) motifs, which for their parts are filled with small flower patterns, are staggered in rows upon a strong red background. Botehs, coming from the Indian word bota for bush or blossom, were a central motif of the cashmere scarfs that had been popular in Europe since the late18th century. During the 19th century they were rewoven in Europe. The patterns influenced the designs of woven and printed materials to lasting effect and these forms were also combined with European motifs. The bodice of this dress lies snug against the back and has a loose front; the plethora of fabric ends in deep-drawn lace and is fixed to the lining in thick folds. The narrow waist is emphasized to advantage above the wide skirt. The long, obliquely cut sleeves are deep set and demonstrate the popular, sloping shoulder line. A fine ornamental seam reinforced with cording marks the begin of the skirt at the waist. It is laid in deep folds that offer more volume. Several partially stiffened petticoats are worn underneath. The dress is completely lined with light lining that is worked in the skirt as a loose petticoat.

Details

  • Title: Day Dress
  • Creator: Unknown
  • Date: ca. 1845
  • Stylistic point of origin: England
  • Rights: Photo © bpk - Photo Agency / Kunstgewerbemuseum, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin - Preußischer Kulturbesitz / Stephan Klonk │ Text © Staatliche Museen zu Berlin - Preußischer Kulturbesitz / Christine Waidenschlager
  • Provenance: 2003 Kamer/Ruf collection; 1998 Auction, Salisbury, Kunstgewerbemuseum, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin - Preußischer Kulturbesitz
  • Length: Fl. 152 cm, bl. 157 cm
  • ISIL no.: DE-MUS-018417
  • Type: Dress
  • External Link: http://www.smb.museum/museen-und-einrichtungen/kunstgewerbemuseum/home.html
  • Medium: Plain weave wool, printed muslin Lining: plain weave cotton and linen, silk ribbon

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