Day Ensemble

Gown: Madame Merlot-Larcheveque1865/1869


Los Angeles, United States

Day Gown: Two-piece gown of silk faille and taffeta with original cotton petticoat:
(A) Bodice trimmed with silk banding at collar, front, sides, bell sleeves; above sleeve opening are round and pleated diamond-shaped self-fabric appliques trimmed with double rows of satin and lace; CF hook and eye closure; jabot of faille pieces with multi-layer silk trim placed down entire CF of bodice; double darts from waist to below bust; notch at each front and reverse side of waist; reverse of bodice cut straight across waist; lining of silk; single bone at CB.
(B) Skirt of matching silk faille; self waistband; front portion of skirt is flat and gored; reverse is cartridge-pleated and trained; bottom portion of skirt with horizontal band of multi-layer trim consisting of bias strips over wider faille and satin bands with lace at each side; trim travels up and down diagonally at each side to create large triangular shape; satin bow at top; vertical row of three smaller bows beneath ;trim continues to reverse; pocket at PR side seam; hook and eye at CB.
(C) Trained petticoat of white cotton with button hole at CF waistband; yoke below; gored; flounce at bottom portion with single ruffle at top and double ruffle at bottom; CB is cartridge pleated; CB hook and eye closure. "G….illegible" handwritten in ink
Date: c. 1867

Stickpin: Hair jewelry stickpin with stones and albumen photograph of woman; oval setting in gold-colored metal; twist in middle of pin.
Label: none
Date: 1860-69

Buckle: Gold oval belt buckle rimmed with pavé-set cabochon turquoise stones; swiveling double clasp with three teeth.
Label: "21" stamped near swiveling double hasp on back
Date: 1860-90

Shawl: Chantilly lace shawl; handmade; elongated triangular shape with scalloped, piqued edge; central field of floral motif and vine medallions.
Date: 1860-70

Parasol: Carriage parasol of black chantilly lace with ivory and coral handle.
Label: none
Date; c. 1865


  • Title: Day Ensemble
  • Creator: Gown: Madame Merlot-Larcheveque
  • Date Created: 1865/1869
  • Location Created: Gown: Paris, France Stickpin: Great Britain or United States Buckle: United States Shawl: France Parasol: Probably Great Britain
  • Physical Dimensions: Gown: Bodice CB: 17"; Skirt CB: 72" Stick Pin: L: 3 5/8" Buckle: L: 2 1/4" Shawl: L: 118" Parasol: Widest point while closed: 10.25" Diameter open: 21.5"
  • Provenance: Day Gown: FIDM Museum Purchase: Funds generously donated by Tonian Hohberg Stickpin: Gift of Andrea Tice in memory of Carmelita Johnson Buckle & Parasol: Gift of Steven Porterfield Shawl: FIDM Museum Purchase; Acquired by FIDM Museum at Augusta Auctions, Oct 2006, Lot 616.
  • Type: Day Gown, Stickpin, Buckle, Shawl, Parasol
  • Rights: © FIDM Museum & Library, Inc. Image made available for limited non-commercial, educational, and personal use only, or for fair use as defined in the United States copyright laws. Users must cite the author and source of the image as they would material from any printed work, and the citations should include the URL “www.fidmmuseum.org”. For publication or press requests, visit http://www.fidmmuseum.org/about/rights-and-reproductions/ or email imagerights@FIDMmuseum.org.
  • Medium: Day Gown: Silk faille, silk taffeta & silk blonde lace Stickpin: Gold, turquoise, albumen photograph, human hair & glass Buckle: Gold & turquoise Shawl: Silk Chantilly lace Parasol: Silk Chantilly lace, gold, ivory & coral

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