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Gown: Dress of white cotton with white embroidered net and white embroidered gauze ruffles; neckline is cut straight across and trimmed with self-piping at front and reverse; shoulder straps trimmed with white piping; full leg-o-mutton sleeves cartridge-pleated into armscyes with self-piping; sleeves extremely full at top and taper to wrist, becoming form-fitting; applied band cuff bordered with self -piping; cuff closed with three hooks-and-eyes; upper portion of bust with five horizontal tucks; center of tucks with applied elongated triangle bordered by self-piping; four darts at front of bodice; slightly raised waist; full skirt is knife-pleated to waist; lower portion of skirt is embroidered and ruffled; horizontal row of meandering floral white-work with embroidered net vine motifs; two gauze ruffles edged in floral white-work below; additional white-work row with two ruffles below; hem of dress is scalloped with embroidered net; reverse of bodice with faux princess seams comprised of triple rows of piping; center back alternating hook-and-eye closure bordered by piping; slit in skirt just below closure.
Label: none
Date: 1827-29

Bonnet: Woman's drawn bonnet of copper-colored silk net; elongated brim is widest around face; net is gathered between seven wires; each wire wrapped in copper silk; back portion of bonnet is full and gathered to last wire; ruffle around outer edge of brim; narrower ruffle encircles back wire; bavolet with upstanding ruffle; copper colored silk grosgrain ribbon ties.
Label: none
Date: 1820-1829

Mobcap: Woman's cap of white cotton lawn and white cotton cambric; top of crown with circular insertion of white lawn bordered by broderie d'anglaise lace and faggoting; two puffed panels of cambric at reverse of crown bordered by broderie d'anglaise and faggoting; scalloped cambric ruffle with broderie d'anglaise and drawn work borders edge of crown; matching double ruffle at sides and reverse; inner drawstring in self-fabric casing.
Label: none
Date: 1820's

Brooch: Hairwork brooch with yellow faceted stones and seed pearls; gold-colored metal setting with eight yellow oval faceted stones along the edge; twenty-five seed pearls outline center glass covered compartment; compartment contains dark brown tightly woven hair; metal loop and pin closure on back side.
Label: none
Date: 1820-1850

Buckle: Silver belt buckle with hand-painted Classical scenes.
(A) Rectangular ornamental metalwork frame; cherub figure at center right; foliage and ornate scrollwork around perimeter of frame; proper left side of frame features female part of hinge; decorative enamel picture at center of buckle depicts blond cherub anointing a young Roman male, possibly the god Mars; buckle post on rear includes silver marking including the initials "ET"; other two markings are indecipherable.
(B) Rectangular ornamental metalwork frame; cherub figure at center left; foliage and flower scrollwork around perimeter of frame; proper right side of frame features male part of hinge; decorative enamel picture at center of buckle depicts a blonde cherub floating above a female figure, possibly the goddess Venus.; buckle post on rear includes silver markings including the initials "ET". The other two markings are indecipherable.
Label: None
Date: 1830 – 1835

(A) Rectangular ornamental metalwork frame; cherub figure at center right; foliage and ornate scrollwork around perimeter of frame; proper left side of frame features female part of hinge; decorative enamel picture at center of buckle depicts blond cherub anointing a young Roman male, possibly the god Mars; buckle post on rear includes silver marking including the initials "ET"; other two markings are indecipherable.
(B) Rectangular ornamental metalwork frame; cherub figure at center left; foliage and flower scrollwork around perimeter of frame; proper right side of frame features male part of hinge; decorative enamel picture at center of buckle depicts a blonde cherub floating above a female figure, possibly the goddess Venus.; buckle post on rear includes silver markings including the initials "ET". The other two markings are indecipherable.
Label: None
Date: 1830 – 1835

Shawl: Dark blue lightweight silk twill rectangular shawl with green, white, orange, yellow, tan and red floral brocade at each short end; five bouquets of red and yellow wax flowers, yellow and pink lily-of-the-valley, pink roses, white poppy or peony, and yellow and orange zinnia surrounded by small green flowers and large orange and red dahlias and red mums; narrow vertical row of white daisies with green foliage two inches from fringed ends; white and light blue selvage on two long sides; one inch fringe on short sides.
Label: White plainweave ribbon printed with "QT\ 3080." three times in dark blue; "5781" or "3781" handwritten in ink; stitched to interior proper left corner.
Date: 1820-1825

Boots: (A/B) Ankle boots of tan cotton and wool blend twill with tan leather; majority of boot is of tan cloth; slightly rounded toe, bottom sides and heel of tan leather; seam down center front and center back of boot; top-stitching at edge of cloth where it joins leather portion; interior side lace-up closure with original light orange silk twill lacings (C/D); tongue of cotton twill under lace-up closure; seven round taupe silk thread covered buttons on top portion of proper right side; top opening and sides edged with light brown silk; insole of polished cotton; low heel; flat leather sole.
Label: none
Date: 1845-55

Details

  • Title: Day Gown Front View
  • Manufacturer: Shawl: Spitalfields
  • Date Created: 1826/1827
  • Location Created: Dress and Mobcap: United States Bonnet: Europe Brooch: Probably United States Buckle: Austria Shawl: Spitalfields, England Boots: Probably Great Britain
  • Physical Dimensions: Gown CB: 50″ Bonnet L: 12″ Mobcap H: 6 ½″ Brooch L: 1 ½″ Buckle: H: 3″ Shawl L: 101″ Boots L: 10″
  • Provenance: Gown, Bonnet, Mobcap, Buckle, Shawl and Boots: Museum Purchase Brooch: Gift of Andrea Tice in Memory of Carmelita Johnson
  • Type: Gown, Bonnet, Mobcap, Brooch, Waist Buckle, Shawl, Boots
  • Photographer: Brian Sanderson
  • Rights: © FIDM Museum & Library, Inc. Image made available for limited non-commercial, educational, and personal use only, or for fair use as defined in the United States copyright laws. Users must cite the author and source of the image as they would material from any printed work, and the citations should include the URL “www.fidmmuseum.org”. For publication or press requests, visit http://www.fidmmuseum.org/about/rights-and-reproductions/ or email imagerights@FIDMmuseum.org.
  • Medium: Gown: Cotton percale, cotton netting and cotton embroidery floss Bonnet: Silk netting and silk floss-wrapped wire Mobcap: Cotton mull Brooch: Gold, citrines, seed pearls, human hair and glass Buckle: Silver gilt, enamel and turquoise ShawL: Silk brocade Boots: Wool broadcloth, leather & silk
  • Object ID: Gown: 2007.5.26 Bonnet: 2008.5.18 Mobcap: 2004.5.22 Brooch: 2008.46.170 Buckle: 2008.5.40AB Shawl: 2009.5.57 Boots: 2008.5.31AB
  • Bibliographic References: Kevin L. Jones and Christina M Johnson. FABULOUS! Ten Years of FIDM Museum Acquisitions, 2000-2010. Los Angeles: FIDM Museum Publications, 2010.

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