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Day Gown Front View

FIDM MUSEUM & GALLERIES

FIDM MUSEUM & GALLERIES
Los Angeles, United States

Gown: Tobacco-colored brown silk taffeta day dress with oversized puffed sleeves; wide, square neckline with narrow casing for drawstring; two princess seams with self-fabric piping extend from corner of neckline to waistband; two piped seams at center front become more narrow towards waist; narrow, horizontal pleats at center front panel; pleats on each side of center front with twisted fold facing upward near center and downward at princess seams, ending at bust; self-fabric waistband at elevated waistline; armscyes low on shoulder; sleeves cut in one piece with gusset at back armscye; fullness below shoulders pleated; fullness released two and one-half inches below shoulder seam with volume extending to two and one-half inch cuff; two small tucks at upper underarm; two hook-and-eye closures at cuff; full, ankle-length skirt of two panels with side seams; fullness at front pleated three times on each side; five inch turned-up hem; lowered shoulder seams at back trimmed with six self-fabric covered buttons; center back opening with twelve non-functional covered buttons on exterior; drawstring tie at center back neckline; twelve hook-and-eye closures at interior; ten inch slit below waistline bound with piping; fullness tightly gathered at back; busk in center front casing; horsehair gauze panels at center front, proper left and proper right of bodice front interior; one inch cotton plainweave tape stitched to inner waistband with narrow tape extending into ties for CB; boning and self-fabric casing at center back closure; unlined.
Label: none
Date: 1836-1837

Bonnet: Plaited straw bonnet with oversized brim; large half-cone-shaped brim of tan plaited straw with tall crown set at angle from brim; crown trimmed in ombre cream and rust orange three inch silk ribbon with brocade floral motif and tufted edges; ribbon folds at sides of crown and extends into bonnet ties; bow of same fabric at top of brim; light green silk brocade ribbon with pink stripe extends across top of crown and drapes around sides of brim near crown; five white cotton roses with wired stems at top and proper left side of brim; brim lined in off-white silk; cream silk lace at interior edge of brim; cream silk netting ruffle at seam of brim and crown; crown partially lined in silk gauze; wire supports at edges of brim and crown.
Label: none
Date: 1830-1835

Brooch:Hairwork brooch with red stones and seed pearls; rectangular gold setting with open-work scroll designs and single red stones at each side of setting; twenty-four square and round faceted stones frame twenty-four seed pearls; rectangular glass covered compartment at center contains light brown hair in Prince of Wales plume design; gold thread and seed pearls embellish plumes; "John Stevens\Died 9 July 1829,\Aged 59.\Ann Stevens\Died 28, Jany 1837,\Aged 59" engraved at back; pin with hinge and hook closure at back.
Label: none
Date: 1837

Waist Buckle: Oblong rectangular mother-of-pearl buckle; two long slits at center; domed spots form rectangular border around two slits together; cross-hatching fills space between inner dotted border and exterior scalloped border; reticulated stars at center of each scallop; serrated edge all around; reverse is smooth.
Label: none
Date: 1830-1839

Boots: (A/B) Pair brown silk/wool blend twill walking shoes; ankle-length leg with silk/wool plainweave tape binding; two quarters with seams at center front and center back; side lace with eyelet holes for brown silk laces; self-fabric tongue extends from interior; narrow heel cap of black polished leather extends three-eighths inch from sole; toe cap of polished black leather extends seven-eighths inch from sole; double topstitching in brown thread at all seams; brown leather sole; interior lining of cream twill; insole of cream plainweave.
(C/D) Pair brown silk twill laces with metal cylinders at ends.
Label: Handwriting in ink on interior of PL shoe (B) illegible; possibly reads "Gring\ 5 1/2"
Date: 1825-1845

Mitts: (A/B) Pair black lace fingerless gloves (mitts); extend just past wrist; crocheted black cotton netting with leaf motif embroidered in black cotton floss on top of hand and wrist; black silk drawstring woven through openwork at wrist.
Label: none
Date: 1830-1839

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  • Title: Day Gown Front View
  • Date Created: 1833/1837
  • Location Created: Gown and Buckle: Europe Bonnet: Italy or Great Britain Brooch: Probably United States Boots: Probably Great Britain Mitts: Europe or United States
  • Physical Dimensions: Gown CB: 48 ½″ Bonnet H: 10″ Brooch L: 2 1⁄8″ Buckle L: 3 ¼″ Boots L: 10 ¼″ Mitts L: 9 1/2"
  • Provenance: Gown: Museum Purchase Bonnet: Museum Purchase Brooch: Gift of Andrea Tice in Memory of Carmelita Johnson Buckle: Gift of Jay Hampel Boots: Museum Purchase Mitts: Gift of John Kauke
  • Type: Gown, Bonnet, Brooch, Waist Buckle, Boots, Mitts
  • Photographer: Brian Sanderson
  • Rights: © FIDM Museum & Library, Inc. Image made available for limited non-commercial, educational, and personal use only, or for fair use as defined in the United States copyright laws. Users must cite the author and source of the image as they would material from any printed work, and the citations should include the URL “www.fidmmuseum.org”. For publication or press requests, visit http://www.fidmmuseum.org/about/rights-and-reproductions/ or email imagerights@FIDMmuseum.org.
  • Medium: Gown: Silk taffeta Bonnet: Straw, China silk, silk lace, silk ribbon and cotton flowers Brooch: Gold, amethyst, pearls, human hair and glass Buckle: Mother-of-pearl Boots: Wool / silk broadcloth and leather Mitts: Cotton mesh & silk embroidery floss
  • Object ID: Gown: 2009.5.66 Bonnet: S2009.5.68 Brooch: 2008.46.162 Buckle: 2010.801.1 Boots: 2009.5.33A-D Mitts: 82.405.3AB
  • Bibliographic References: Kevin L. Jones and Christina M Johnson. FABULOUS! Ten Years of FIDM Museum Acquisitions, 2000-2010. Los Angeles: FIDM Museum Publications, 2010.
FIDM MUSEUM & GALLERIES

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