Dean Wong: Made in Chinatown, USA - Chen's Good Taste Restaurant

"Good Taste has a barbecue window. You know. Chinatown style with ducks and cha shiu hanging to tempt those passing by. When done chopping my duck, Chen slams the bottom corner of his cleaver into the cutting board.

The robust blade with the Chinese characters stamped on it, is wedged at a defiant angle. Like it’s not going anywhere. It’s here to stay.

Chen excuses himself to visit the kitchen where he has a staff of four preparing meals. Looking out the window, I see two Chinese women greeting a Good Taste employee pushing a hand truck full of vegetables. It’s a happy scene.

It’s a brief moment, but it’s a sign of life in Chinatown, though it may be rare and fleeting."