Man's Court Suit Detail

This extremely rare three-piece court suit is the height of extravagance in materials and workmanship. Created in the reign of Emperor Napoléon Bonaparte (r. 1804-1814/15) by handloom weavers and master embroiderers, its uncut voided silk velvet with gold, silver, rhinestone, and sequin embellishments is truly regal. When paying homage at court, a splendid appearance was de rigueur. Austrian composer Johann Hummel (1778-1837) commissioned it for an important performance, possibly the Congress of Vienna (1814-15) held to reposition the boundaries of Europe after Napoléon’s defeat at the Battle of Waterloo.

Man's three-piece court suit of embroidered voided velvet:
(A) Jacket of uncut aubergine silk velvet with repeating 1/8" long cuts showing purple silk below; embroidery consists of gold metallic threads which form leaves and stems, white silk satin stitch embroidery which forms iris motifs, silver metallic thread which forms repeating comma shapes, small round glass ornaments and round silver metal sequins; high standing embroidered collar cut down CF; cut-away coat with embroidery down each side of CF opening; silver coma motifs and glass ornaments edge sides of opening; eight round buttons containing round glass ornaments and gold braid edging on PR side of opening; three button holes on PL side; long sleeves with embroidered turn-back cuffs; three round buttons on outer side of cuff have round glass ornaments and are edged with gold braid; notched flap pocket at each side; three buttons below flap; reverse with embroidery just below collar; floral embroidery begins just above waist and continues down to hem; jacket is slit; pleat surmounted by button at either side of slit; gold braid edges collar, CF sides, pockets, CB slit and inner sides of reverse pleats in skirt; lining of cream silk faille with various later patches.
(B) Vest of cream-colored silk faille; embroidery motifs match jacket but are smaller; standing collar with embroidery; PR side of CF opening with nine round buttons having silver sequins at center and braid trim; PL side with nine button holes; metallic and white silk iris and foliage motifs edge each side of CF opening and continue down to front hem; majority of vest front with repeating silver comma and sequin embroidery; notched flap pocket at each side; vest terminates below waist and is notched; reverse of cotton with later inset cotton panel to increase size; later silk panels at collar and sides; silk and cotton lining.

(C) Breeches of uncut aubergine silk velvet with repeating 1/8" long cuts showing purple silk below; self waistband with three round self buttons; drop front panel with three round self buttons; pocket at PL side; watch pocket at right side of front; breeches taper to knee; vertical row of four round self buttons and button holes at bottom of each leg opening; band of silver/gold leaf embroidery at each opening; band is notched at side and pulled through button hole; CB with two round silver buttons; seat with later black velvet panel to increase size; original fabric folded over at waistband to change size; upper portion of breeches lined with cotton.
Label: none
Date: 1810-1814