From the early 1900s, the weaving of fine silk and zari in plain weave has been popularly referred to as tissue in prominent brocade producing centres of India. While the exact origin of the term is unknown, with tissue being the French word for textiles, it is possible that it emerged as part of the broader European influences on Indian handwoven textiles observed from the late 19th and early 20th century onwards. Such fabrics were ideally suited for formal and occasional wear in the subcontinent’s largely warm climates, and are a distinguishing feature of the weaving traditions of the Deccan in particular. In this fine tissue panel, small checks with alternating patterns of localised stripes create a subtle texture throughout the field. The textile comes alive through its reflective qualities, and is representative of the contemporary geometrical design repertories created for Visvakarma.
The evolution of brocade weaving in India is traced to Persian influence.