Surnmerland
THE PRESS DEMOCRAT, SUNDAY, MARCH 19, 1989
010
Brazil's struggling new black voice rises in song
Musician leads movement
major new efforts to save the
historic city's cultural heritage.
principally the fine old churches in
the hilly, cobblestoned neighbor-
hood of Pelourinho, including one
whose vaulting nave is exquisitely
adorned with gold leaf painstaking,
ly applied by black slaves.
From his government post Gil
helped launch foundations and cul-
tural centers celebrating Salva-
dor's blackness. He used his promi-
nence as Salvador's best-known
citizen to demand attention from
state authorities and the central
government in Brasilia
Today in Pelourinho some of the
old buildings are still in danger, but
at least more people are paying
attention. Civic and cultural groups
abound, and it is nearly impossible
to find one that doesn't bear a
plaque or certificate citing Gil as a
prime moving force who managed
to come up with money. office
space or some other desperately
needed help.
"I didn't ask for all the plaques,"
he says. "It makes me uneasy to see
my name all over the place like
that. I guess I'm used to being
known, but that was different."
Pelourinho, like other parts of
the city, is a celebration of Brazil's
rich black culture. Brazil's black
population is at least 70 million
larger than that of any country on
earth except Nigeria.
Some believe even more Brazil-
ians have at least some African
blood, as many as 80 percent.
Salvador is the capital of this
nation-within-a-nation.
In a plaza surrounded by four of
the city's many churches, young
men gather to practice capoeira,
an indigenous martial art that
began centuries ago when slaves
were not allowed to fight among
this is just something you have to themselves.
do, if you feel it. It makes you a They solved the problem of
target in many ways, even physical- settling their disputes by develop
ly. But once you decide it's impor ing a fighting style disguised as a
tant, you take the consequences of dance. It features cartwheels and
what that brings."
karate-like kicks, and looks harm-
less enough until the guys on the
plaza get a bit carried away, stop
pulling their punches and show
how deadly serious it really can be.
Two years ago, Gil was appointed
to his first public office, as secre-
tary of education and culture for
the city of Salvador. He launched
By EUGENE ROBINSON
Washington Post
SALVADOR DA BAHIA, Brazil -
A new black consciousness is brew-
ing in Brazil, and its birth was
evident even in that apotheosis of
the don't worry-be-happy Brazilian
experience, carnaval.
The
lyrics being sung by those
sleek, G-stringed throngs gyrating
through the streets in February
were all about black pride and
empowerment, about the struggle
for equality in a country that
abolished slavery 101 years ago
and ever since has steadfastly
clung to the fiction that racism
simply doesn't exist.
The center of this nascent black
cultural and political surge is Salva-
dor da Bahia, Brazil's oldest city
and, through most of its history, the
entry point and trading block for
millions of slaves.
And the movement's focal per-
sonality is a slight, wiry, almost
elfin man much better known for
his singing, songwriting and guitar-
playing than his status as an advo-
cate for Brazil's impoverished
black majority
His name is Gilberto Gil, and he
is one of Brazil's bigger musical
stars. He is also newly elected as
one of the city of Salvador's verea-
dores, or city council members, the
first in this overwhelmingly black
city ever to take office after run-
ning on black-related issues.
"This is a new phase, and we'll
see how it goes," says Gil. "I'm
going to have all kinds of new
responsibilities. It's already gotten
so that performing is a vacation."
As he speaks, Gil is curled into a
compact ball on his living-room
couch in Rio de Janeiro, where he
also maintains an apartment. He is
exhausted; he's in Rio to open a
new show, record a new album and
rest a bit before going back to
Salvador, his unforsakable home
except when business calls, to take
office in March.
The Rio apartment is actually in
Sao Conrado, a glorious seaside
suburb with a postcard view of
cliffs, beach and sea. It's a commu-
nity of exclusive high-rises and
luxury hotels, all ringed by high
fences and protected by armed-to-
the-teeth security forces. "For most
people around the world, this is
Brazil," Gil says.
The reason for all the security is
that spilling down into Sao Conrado
from a hillside to the north is the
other Brazil - the favela of Rocin-
ha, one of South America's larger
slums.
Last year Rocinha was in the
news when a gang of drug dealers
took the place over, holding press
conferences and defying police to
come up the hill and get them.
Finally police did just that, in a
brutal raid that left several of the
major dealers dead.
The people who live in Rocinha
- like the people who live in the
slums of Salvador, Sao Paulo and
the rest of Brazil's big cities, and
like the people trying to scratch out
a living on the farms of Brazil's
crowded, dirt-poor northeast-are
black
Yet the official line in Brazil has
always been that this is a col-
or-blind society, a true rainbow. It
is true that Brazilians come in the
most amazing variety of hues, and
that the line between white and
black is nowhere near so sharp as
in the United States.
"I don't know where that myth
started," Gil says. "Black people
JOIN US EASTER SUNDAY!
Michele
here always knew what was going
on. They didn't always say it, but
they knew. Even whites knew
about all the inequalities. They'd
always give you a little look that
said, 'Yes, that's the way it is."
A decade ago, Gilberto Gil was
just another in the remarkable
generation of
Brazilian singer-song-
writers who took samba-flavored
rhythms, sweet kinda-blue melo-
dies, an international jazz- and
rock-flavored sensibility and mod
ern production techniques and cre-
ated a distinctive, wildly successful
sound.
Then he took a trip to Africa and
underwent what could mildly be
called an attitude readjustment.
"I don't know what really did it,"
he says, in good English that
improves as the conversation goes
on. "I suppose it was seeing how
black people are treated all over
the world. I saw what they were left
with after colonialism. Then when I
got back to Salvador, I could see
much more clearly what had hap-
pened to us."
The transformation was gradual.
First he began writing songs
around political and cultural
themes. Then he began speaking
out, holding press conferences and
using his concerts to preach the
cause.
Brazil never had a civil rights
movement or a black-is-beautiful
awakening like that in the States, in
part because there have long been
strong laws against racism.
Even racial slurs, like a popular
television personality's recent
equation of blacks with apes, are
illegal and can bring arrest. But in
The government in its public
stance may stand more strongly for
racial equality than any other in
the world, but in the real world its
policy can most charitably be
described as benign neglect.
There are, of course, other black
spokesmen in Brazil. But because
of his fame as an entertainer, Gil is
the best known. People come to his
press conferences.
He compares his trajectory to
that of Stevie Wonder, who under-
Gilberto Gil, one of Brazil's bigger musical stars and a
political activist, has helped launch foundations and
cultural centers celebrating Salvador's blackness
went a similar metamorphosis by
first inserting social commentary
into his music, then becoming
involved in civil-rights causes and
eventually leading the successful
fight to have the Rev. Martin
Luther King Jr.'s birthday made a
federal holiday.
"I've talked to Stevie Wonder
about it," Gil says. "He told me that
WASHINGTON POST