This dolman was worn by Queen Alexandra in the 1870s when she was Princess of Wales. Dolmans are a type of cape that became fashionable in the later 19th century. They fasten at the front, with enough fabric at the back to be worn over bustles.
Princess Alexandra married Queen Victoria's eldest son, Prince Albert Edward in 1863 and became Queen in 1901. Early in her marriage, her youth, beauty and sociability were contrasted to Queen Victoria, who had withdrawn from public life following the death of Prince Albert in 1861. Alexandra's style was elegant and simple for day wear, but regal for formal occasions. She wore a wide array of different colours until her eldest son's death in 1892. After this she predominantly wore half-mourning colours of black, white and mauve for the rest of her life.
Made of cashmere and silk, this dolman would have provided warmth without restricting movement, due to its wide sleeves and loose cut. Not many pieces of Alexandra's outerwear survive, making this one quite rare. It was stylish but still allowed for comfort. It is embroidered with chocolate brown silk braid accompanied by highlights of silver and gold braid in pattern of spirals, zig-zags and stylised ferns.
A label inside shows it was made by the Parisian firm Dieulafait & E Bouclier. Perhaps unusually for a member of the royal family, Alexandra wore French as well as British made clothing, reflecting her discerning taste and careful choice of clothing suppliers.
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