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In his first collection for Chanel in 1983, Karl Lagerfeld demonstrated his respect for the tradition of its founder, Coco Chanel (1883–1971), as well as his ability to bring new life and contemporary relevance to her work. This design from that first effort cites one of her favored looks, a black dress adorned with a mass of costume jewelry. Lagerfeld’s embroidered trompe l’oeil baubles, executed by the specialist House of Lesage, are a witty take on Chanel’s embrace of fake jewelry.

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