Evening coat

Watered silk (moiré) gives this elaborate evening coat its shimmering and reflective appearance. As the light moves over the fabric, it reveals a fluid background to the damask-woven ribbon bows. The cream-toned French silk was probably made in Lyons. The finishing process creates the water-like surface effect. The finely ribbed silk is compressed between heated, engraved copper rollers which produces an irregular rippled effect.

The House of Worth may have designed this coat. Charles Frederick Worth was a celebrated couture dressmaker in Paris. Born in Lincolnshire, he started work at the age of 12 in a draper’s shop in London. After working for various haberdashers and silk mercers, he left for Paris in 1845. In 1858 he went into partnership with a Swedish businessman, Otto Bobergh, and opened his own house. He designed clothes for the Empress Eugénie, wife of the French Emperor Napoleon III. Her influence was instrumental to his success, and made-to-measure clothes from his house became a symbol of social and financial success. Clients appreciated their beauty, elegance and fine workmanship. When Worth died in 1895, his son Jean Philippe continued as designer. His clientele included Dutch and Russian royal families as well as the social élite. The business eventually closed in 1954.