Evening dress

Couturier clothing was custom-made for each individual client. The designs often included interior padding or subtle structuring to camouflage and correct defects. Shoulder pads could be adjusted to allow for natural unevenness, and busts could be gently enhanced with concealed padding and ruching. The process of fitting couture was conducted in strictest confidence.

This 1936 evening dress is by Elsa Schiaparelli, who was known for her shock tactics and love of surrealism. Even her simpler dresses often featured unexpected details. Here, Schiaparelli has taken the intimate padding over the breasts which would normally be concealed, and used it to decorate the outside of a severe brown crepe dress. The contrast between the modest high-necked gown and the overt reference to the wearer's bust is typical of Schiaparelli.