Evening dress

Pink and mauve floral sprigs powder the bodice and skirt of this evening dress. A silk from the previous century has been reused to make it. Stitch marks on the skirt and bodice show where the original 1770s gown has been unpicked and the applied decoration removed. It was quite common for clothes to be taken apart and remodelled to suit the latest styles. The 1840s vogue for long bodices and full skirts meant that there were stylistic similarities between the newest fashions and those of the previous century. Alteration was therefore viable. It was also much cheaper to restyle an old dress than buy a new silk of this quality.

Small tubular pleats known as ‘organ pleats’ gather the fabric into the waist of this dress. They were often used during this period to give an even fullness to the skirt, helping it fall away from the body in graceful folds. Organ pleats also accentuated the deep point of the bodice. This one is very long and is supported by four pieces of whalebone inserted into the lining at the centre front seam and darts. The rigid structure and precise fit would have held the body in a stiff, unnatural position, aided by the corset worn underneath.