When oil of safflower, castor or linseed is heated over fire for more than twelve hours and cast into cold water, it produces a thick residue called roghan, which may be mixed with oxides or coloured pigments. With a stylus, the artisan then draws out from this residue a fine thread which is applied to the cloth to create a raised pattern.
The roghan-workers carefully work out a quarter of rectangular fabric in thick roghan outline, which when folded from the middle, first vertically along its edges and then horizontally, effectively stamps the design on the remaining three-fourths of the cloth. Today,Nirona in Kutch is the only place where this work is done.
Using roghan work, the artisans of Kutch traditionally produced coverlets, wall hangings and canopies, skirt pieces and veil cloths which created the effect of embroidery while being less labour-intensive and thereafter cheaper.