Farji, Choga-style over-garment

The farji was an overgarment, to be worn like a coat over a jama or angrakha. In appearance, it was like a short version of the choga with a front opening, and could be made with or without a fur-collar. The length of the sleeve varied, perhaps by choice of the user. This garment is mentioned in Ain-i-Akbari: “it has no binding, and is open in the front. Some put buttons on it.” The farji can be seen in a number of miniatures from Deccani, Mughal, Rajasthani schools.

This dark green silk farji has a front opening, short sleeves and a ‘v’ neck. Its skirt has short slits and a straight hemline. Edges of all of these are decorated with zari brocaded additional borders, which bear a small purple and zari foliage pattern. The plain field of the garment has diagonally arranged kinari, which have been formed into round flower butis through the couching technique. Enlivened with dots of pink silk, these butis make the farji very attractive.