Going away dress worn by Princess Mary

Mary, Princess Royal, (1897-1965) was the daughter of George V and Queen Mary. She married Henry Lascelles, the 6th Earl of Harewood on 28 February 1922. Princess Mary wore this as her going away dress. The wedding was a popular occasion as it was the first major royal ceremony to take place after the First World War.

The wedding attracted lots of public interest and newspaper coverage, including illustrations and descriptions of this going away dress. The Daily Mail wrote on 8 February 'Princess Mary’s going-away dress is in the soft shades of pink and blue for which she has always shown a preference, embroidered in blue silk and beads of crystal and the palest pink coral', The Illustrated London News included a line illustration of the dress and on 4 March 1922 she was depicted on the cover as she embarked on her honeymoon.

While the dress has style features characteristic of fashionable clothing at the time, including a soft unstructured shape, muted colours, and loose kimono shaped sleeves, the high waistline and rose velvet corsage add a more conventional look suitable for a royal occasion. It is beautifully made and embellished with hand embroidery and beading. The dress originally had a small detachable collar and cuffs. Although they are no longer present there is evidence to suggest where they may have once been attached. Considerable care has been taken over the covered buttons and button holes at the back of the dress. A small horseshoe, traditionally for good luck, is hidden on the inside of the dress, embroidered to the hem.

The important fashion historian, Doris Langley-Moore, acquired the dress from George Lascelles, 7th Earl of Harewood, Princess Mary's eldest son. Lascelles was the Vice-President of Doris Langley-Moore's Museum of Costume committee. The dress then belonged to fashion collector Helen Larson, and was loaned to the FIDM Museum in Los Angeles, before entering the Royal Ceremonial Dress Collection.