Gown

Dress with a tight-fitting, whalebone bodice. Cut at the waist with a skirt that opens in a semi-circular shape at the front, and studded at the back with three inner bands. The material is held at the waist in eight open pleats with a slight gathering at the back. Rounded collar with a V-neck at the front. It fastens with five buttons covered in silk fabric, and two hook and eye clasps. The back has two side seams, and there are four tailored darts to the front. Open cuff with overlapping pointed finish in double taffeta ribbon. Attached to the sleeve is an inner sleeve in machine-made tulle with two lines of tulle ruffles covering part of the hand. The entire tail is edged with the same taffeta ribbon with a pointed finish. Tulle, fichu-style collar with floral motifs embroidered in lace.

Around 1870–1871, these structures with tails, which are reminiscent of 18th century polonaise style, came into fashion. The death of the hoop skirt made way for a new feminine silhouette, defined by the use of a different frame—the bustle—which kept skirts and overskirts at hip level and created volume at the back of the dress. The fabrics used in these garments, which were gathered at the sides and the back, created pleats and draping that resembled the window drapes used in houses.