The motif of a cockscomb plant is expressed as a singular buta in an aesthetic which connects to the gossamer, white-on-white Jamdanis of Bengal and the fine Chikankari embroidery associated with the royalty and aristocracy of erstwhile Awadh. The bloom and the leaves have a fluidity, reminiscent of Mughal rendering of flowers that captured its beauty in gentle curls. With the use of organza as base, the commission suggested the possibility of using silk as a base for Jamdani, a trend which has since picked up in contemporary expressions.
The white Jamdani woven flower on this panel is created using a discontinuous supplementary weft technique on organza fabric by Prabha Traders at Varanasi. The motif of a cockscomb plant is expressed as a singular buta, and the aesthetic of the piece connects to the delicate white-on-white Jamdanis of Bengal and the fine Chikankari embroidery associated with the royalty and aristocracy of the former state of Awadh. The use of organza as the base fabric, and the suggestion of using silk for Jamdani, have become a trend in contemporary expressions of this art form. Overall, the panel showcases the skill and expertise of the artists involved in its creation and highlights the versatility and beauty of the Jamdani weaving technique.
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